Release question as well as other needs.

[zeus1gdsm]

Alright so.. I got my Matthews switchback into a local shop and had my whisker biscuit and older cobra 5 pin lighted sight mounted.

I just scored a new can in the correct draw length on eBay. So she's finally starting to come together.

Couple questions for the collective.

1) I'm looking for an entry level but reliable release. Any brands I should stay away from?

2) cost for a half dozen finished arrows? Ballpark.

3) any NyS specific arrows regs I need to know? Any shafts or heads or veins I should stay away from?

Thanks all. Again I am looking for good sturdy entry level budget friendly recommendations. If I had money to blow I would have bought a new bow.

[Bowshotmuzzleloader]

Release is really a preference thing or what you are a customed to..

Go to your local shop and try some out ...

[NFA-ADK]

Release is a personal preference.  Some like a release with a wrist strap, others prefer a hand held release, most are good.  Testing them to see which you like is best.

 

Arrows are about 10-14$ for good ones each. 

 

Most expandable broad heads sold in stores are legal for hunting otherwise check the DEC web site.

[Jeremy K]

I have shot gold tips and am currently shooting easton axis ,no complaints about either arrow. I shoot a tru ball release which for me is very comfy.

[thphm]

I have used the Scott brand release for around 10 years or more with out any problems. I also have a string loop on all of my bows. The bow should be set up at a pro shop if you were to use each of them. Just a release or a release and a loop will change the position of your hand at full draw. A wrist strap is good because the release is always on your hand ready to use.They come in different lengths also.

[Bow Addict]

Cobra makes quality releases in many styles and are reasonably priced.

[phade]

Spot Hogg Wise Guy with the post...not super expensive, but not cheap. It'll last a long time and for a hunting focused release, it'll adjust to fit your preferences. 

 

Releases are the one area I think people undervalue and try to save on. You can certainly get by, but this is a "buy once and be done with it" purchase for many years.

 

If you search hard enough, you should be able to find good arrows for about $60 a half dozen. Beman ICS hunters are a good value for the cost. Find a model that has been around a while if you are not buying alot in one order. Arrow companies have realized their sales go up if they change models every 2-3 years, and adjust the specs ever so slightly. Now when I buy arrows, I usually buy 3 dz. at a minimum to ensure I don't have to redial my bow in solely because of a lack of the arrows I shot before.

 

BHs in NY have cutting diameter requirements, and must be not be barbed. Most fixed or replacement blade BH on the market are fine. When you get into mechanicals, look a little more closely. But, if you are on a budget, look at slick tricks standards or magnums, and be done with it. Simple, effective, legal, and not a ton of complaints. Mechanicals...I am a big fan of Grim Reaper 1 3/8" but again, you can pick up some Slick Tricks for a good price and not have to worry about your BH.

[grampy]

1) I use Tru-Ball. They are not the cheapest but the quality is very good. They come in many styles and you should try some different ones to see what style you are more comfortable with.

 

2) There are many brands of arrows to choose from. Most brands make a quality arrow,and after a time you will gravitate to a certain brand, weight and stiffness that shoot well from your bow. Any good bow shop can help you to choose the correct arrow weight,spine stiffness,arrow length and vane preference(I myself use Blazer vanes). for your bow. Don't go with the bargain basement arrows,get the best you can afford,as they tend to be the most accurate arrow to arrow. Expect to pay $50 or more a half dozen,for good quality arrows.

 

3)  Fixed blade,mechanical,there are so many choices and brands of broadheads out there today! Again,each hunter will have a preference as to what is the best and what shoots best from their bow. Fixed 3 blade 100 grain Thunderheads work fine for me on my set up. Almost any broadhead if placed correctly will kill a deer. Find one that shoots well from your bow and practice with it. The price for broadheads is as varied as the sheer number of broadheads out there. look for one in the middle price range and you should be fine. And always check nysdec website for answers on what is legal or not.

 

Good luck and have fun shooting,with your new set up!

[dbHunterNY]

Alright so.. I got my Matthews switchback into a local shop and had my whisker biscuit and older cobra 5 pin lighted sight mounted.

I just scored a new can in the correct draw length on eBay. So she's finally starting to come together.

Couple questions for the collective.

1) I'm looking for an entry level but reliable release. Any brands I should stay away from?

2) cost for a half dozen finished arrows? Ballpark.

3) any NyS specific arrows regs I need to know? Any shafts or heads or veins I should stay away from?

Thanks all. Again I am looking for good sturdy entry level budget friendly recommendations. If I had money to blow I would have bought a new bow.

 

First you pretty much get what you pay for but knowing limitations of less stuff will help you get by just fine with it.

 

1) Releases are the perfect other thing to shop around for especially on ebay.  When convenient check some out in the store or bow shop first when you're there to get a feel for stuff.  entry level means you're going with a wrist strap/index trigger release.  entry cheap hand held releases are junk if they're comparable in price to what you're looking at.  the whole idea of using a hand held is they can be better quality and break/release cleaner and crisper to surprise you when it happens.  assuming you're just focused on aiming at that point, it's a good thing.  Know that a Velcro strap is less consistent than a buckle strap when it comes to tightness and anchor point at full draw.  also it's dead silent compared to noisy as heck velcro. also adjustability for length/distance the release head is from the wrist strap is paramount.  when on your wrist laying in your palm it wants to extend no farther than your middle joint of your middle finger.  different topic but that will help you shoot better.  to get a cheap but quality one with these options look into a buckle with a nylon strap or rope affixed to the head.  TRU Ball Scout, TRU Ball Shooter, and Scott Samurai are examples.  there's around $40-60 without shopping on ebay and cutting $ that in half.  don't go with a cheap one with a tubing covered threaded rod to attach the release head.  they're initially waaayyyy too long and to adjust them you take it apart and hack saw the rod shorter.  if you screw it up the release is junk before you really get to use it much.  otherwise a release can out last any archery gear you've got.

 

2) once you have the cams put on you can have it measured for arrow length but it'll probably be your draw length or minus an inch.  getting these from a shop is ok.  the correct size/stiffness/spine is important.  maybe too stiff is much better than maybe not stiff enough.  also when they're cut the ends should be squared with a squaring tool.  if the inserts at the end of the arrow aren't square with the length of the arrow shaft you're broadheads won't be either so they won't fly as straight or accurate as they could.  it's like having crooked wings.  so just ask when they're being or before done.  it's not extra and should be done.  buying arrows somewhere else and having them cut somewhere they didn't come from costs extra and makes any savings a wash.  good durable cheap ones are Goldtip Devastators $30 per half dozen but they're at Dick's they won't square then ends most likely.  $40-45 anywhere or at a shop will get you half dozen Goldtip Xpedition Hunters which are tough as nails, cheap, and a good arrow among others.  remember all arrows can break or get beaten up so you will have to buy more.  might as well buy cheap but durable ones to make your $ work for you the longest.

 

3)  only thing you have to maybe worry about NYS regs wise is a "barbed" broadhead  they give a description in the Hunting regs guide you can get anywhere you get a hunting license.  if it's a fixed blade you can't have the ends of the blades make a backwards facing point.  with expandable broadheads have to hinge forward.  G5 expandable heads by design are more or less illegal in NY but you'll find them on shelves.  I think the idea is the arrow can pull out on its own if the deer were wounded with a nonfatal shot, giving it a better chance to recover and live.  new broadheads can also be purchased cheaper on online, like ebay.

 

hope that helps

[Bow Addict]

I use Tru Fire releases  now but the $30 cobra i used to use is still going and has lasted 30 + years.

[zeus1gdsm]

Excellent. I appreciate the responses... Lots of great info here. as well as giving me a price point for a basic quality release...

Based on the arrow talk I assume that you would want to get the same arrow shaft and vanes for hunting and target arrows for practice correct?

[Bow Addict]

Excellent. I appreciate the responses... Lots of great info here. as well as giving me a price point for a basic quality release...

Based on the arrow talk I assume that you would want to get the same arrow shaft and vanes for hunting and target arrows for practice correct?

That is correct.Also the same target point weight as your broadheads.Before the season,you should practice with your broadheads to make sure the point of impact is the same as your target points.

Edited April 6, 2015 by Bow Addict

[RangerClay]

I have had nothing but success with TruFire releases.

[chiefbkt]

My 3 cents...

1. Don't skimp when buying a release. It should literally last you a decade or close to it. Tru-fire, Scott, and Tru-ball are good releases that are affordable.

2. Don't skimp on arrows. A good arrow can be had for ~$60 half dozen. When you find a good arrow that performs the way you want, but several dozen of them. Like Phade said, arrow companies tend to reinvent the wheel every few years so it's tough to find that same arrow that you've grown to love.

3. Don't skimp on broadheads. There are so many different styles out there to choose from it becomes a chore. Pick a few of the style (fixed or mechanical) you prefer and read the reviews on them.

Good luck!

[Hock3y24]

fyi I bought a tru fire release on clearance at Walmart today for $9!, half dozen arrows can be had for 40-50$ I prefer Easton aftermaths but I build them myself for under 60 a dozen. I use nap thunderhead 125 grains.

[JimMac]

one of the rage mechanicles broads i think its the 4 blade locks up when deployed so its illegal in NY ...

 

[dbHunterNY]

one of the rage mechanicles broads i think its the 4 blade locks up when deployed so its illegal in NY ...

 

Rage doesn't make a 4 blade broadhead.  all the broadheads have a similar blade deployment system by design and all will swing forward so they're not "barbed".  if they lock up it's due to debris inside them, burs, or bent blades created by use and not maintaining/cleaning them as you would any other broad head fixed or mechanical.  I've played with every one they make just about, but if you still don't believe me you might want to check into that further.

Edited April 13, 2015 by dbHunterNY

[phade]

Rage doesn't make a 4 blade broadhead. all the broadheads have a similar blade deployment system by design and all will swing forward so they're not "barbed". if they lock up it's due to debris inside them, burs, or bent blades created by use and not maintaining/cleaning them as you would any other broad head fixed or mechanical. I've played with every one they make just about, but if you still don't believe me you might want to check into that further.

The 3 blades at one time were considered barbed. No idea if it has been redseigned.

[JimMac]

its one of there 3 blades , as Phade says , had to check with co-worker , that all he hunts

with is rage.

[dbHunterNY]

The 3 blades at one time were considered barbed. No idea if it has been redseigned.

 

 

its one of there 3 blades , as Phade says , had to check with co-worker , that all he hunts

with is rage.

 

yea I'm not sure where that originated from other than word of mouth and what I said previously about debris, bent blades, etc is only more apparent with the 3 blade heads.  any ECO I've asked has said they seem ok.  I know others have asked and got a different answer.  In one of those circumstances the ECO didn't have first hand experience with them and gave the safe answer of No they aren't ok.  they swing forward the same as the 2 blade though from playing with them in my hand.  the blades can make contact with each other in the ferrule but they still go forward.  idk....

 

I guess ask the ECOs where you hunt and whatever they say goes, as they'd be the one that could write you a citation.

[phade]

yea I'm not sure where that originated from other than word of mouth and what I said previously about debris, bent blades, etc is only more apparent with the 3 blade heads.  any ECO I've asked has said they seem ok.  I know others have asked and got a different answer.  In one of those circumstances the ECO didn't have first hand experience with them and gave the safe answer of No they aren't ok.  they swing forward the same as the 2 blade though from playing with them in my hand.  the blades can make contact with each other in the ferrule but they still go forward.  idk....

 

I guess ask the ECOs where you hunt and whatever they say goes, as they'd be the one that could write you a citation.

 

I know the DEC HQ considered or considers the 3 blade barbed. The DEC cannot name the barbed broadheads specifically in print (the reasoning was silly, but that's government), but in the documentation that the DEC ran for a few years actually used a diagram of the various types of BH (fixed, mech), and the mechanical diagram was the 3 blade rage (if you knew what it looked like).

 

If they have not redesigned the 3 blade, they are still considered barbed as they will lock up with all three blades deployed, creating a barbed angle. All three would need to be able to swing forward together, not independently and the three blades won't.

 

A good test is to drill a hole through a sheet of plywood (or any scrap wood) big enough for the closed BH to fit through but not the expanded version. Deploy the blades and try to pull the arrow out. The 2 blade model will fold forward allowing the arrow to come through the small hole. The three blade rage if not redesigned will not allow the blades the fold forward so that the arrow can be pulled back out.

 

I've actually shot a couple deer with a 3 blade rage before and had the arrow not pass through. I tried to get it out, and let me tell you, you immediately know it is barbed.

 

As an aside, they are a great turkey BH because they don't come out.

Edited April 14, 2015 by phade

[phade]

I knew I still had this somewhere...

 

The Rage 3 broadhead does not seem to retract consistently and
therefore may act as a barbed broadhead. Barbed broadheads are illegal for big
game hunting in NY, but our laws and regulations do not prohibit
barbed broadheads for turkey, coyote, or small game. 

Sincerely,
Jeremy Hurst

Jeremy Hurst
Wildlife Biologist

Edited April 14, 2015 by phade

[dbHunterNY]

it sounds like you've most definitely already looked into it.  i'll have to test that out as I don't have the original old ones and i know the new ones aren't exactly the same but darn close to it with the way they function with the camming of the blades held by a screw and angle.  I wonder now if all the newer 3 blades apply, only some, or what.  I'll have to mess with them next time I'm at the archery shop.

 

a lot of hunters use the same setup for deer, coyote, and turkeys for one reason or another, especially in the fall, so I'm sure it'd be good to know.

 

from what it sounds like your experience is only with the old ones or no?

 

[phade]

it sounds like you've most definitely already looked into it.  i'll have to test that out as I don't have the original old ones and i know the new ones aren't exactly the same but darn close to it with the way they function with the camming of the blades held by a screw and angle.  I wonder now if all the newer 3 blades apply, only some, or what.  I'll have to mess with them next time I'm at the archery shop.

 

a lot of hunters use the same setup for deer, coyote, and turkeys for one reason or another, especially in the fall, so I'm sure it'd be good to know.

 

from what it sounds like your experience is only with the old ones or no?

 

 

I have shot 2 and 3 blade rages but stopped using them for a couple reasons. Haven't shot a rage in 5 years or more. Moog shoots them and pretty much de-guts deer, but his bow is packing punch well above most everyone on this site. His deer generally are not blood trailed. We chunk trail...ie look for lungs on the ground. No lie.

 

I shoot slick tricks and grim reaper razor tips in 1 3/8" as I find I get the performance I need with much my lower specs.

[moog5050]

We chunk trail...ie look for lungs on the ground.

LOL - that was true for the most part last year. Either dead 20yds away or quick sprint with parts left behind.