Pygmy Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 I have never cleaned my cases . It seemed like a "less than necessary" cosmetic step that would not affect the performance of my handloads. Then a couple of years ago Bubba and I swapped some components, including some cases...The ones he sent me were BEAUTIFUL and shiny, and I felt a little sheepish about sending him my grungey ones..<<BLUSH>>.. I intend to mend my sloppy ways and either get a tumbler or use the chemical methods that some of the posters here endorse.. I have been meaning to procrastinate about this, but I haven't gotten around to it yet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildcat junkie Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 I have never cleaned my cases . It seemed like a "less than necessary" cosmetic step that would not affect the performance of my handloads. Then a couple of years ago Bubba and I swapped some components, including some cases...The ones he sent me were BEAUTIFUL and shiny, and I felt a little sheepish about sending him my grungey ones..<<BLUSH>>.. I intend to mend my sloppy ways and either get a tumbler or use the chemical methods that some of the posters here endorse.. I have been meaning to procrastinate about this, but I haven't gotten around to it yet. You didn't clean the sizing lube off your cases? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawdwaz Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 I've never tumbled a case either. Prior to resizing, I'll wipe exterior of case necks and run a nylon brush inside case necks. I'll wipe off any excess case lube after the resizing function. That's it for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawnhu Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 I'm pretty sure "necessary" is now a relative term. X-Calibur Lighting Systems http://facebook.com/XCaliburLightingSystems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chas0218 Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Get one of the harbor frieght vibratory cleaner. I got one for x-mas a few years ago and bought the Lyman walnut shell media it works great. I little advice leave spent primers in while tumbling for 2 reasons. First being you won't need a pick to get the media out of the primer pockets/holes, reason 2 you won't have loose primers. Some won't agree with me but I haven't had an issue with my primers going in or firing with "dirty" primer pockets. Another thing I learned do NOT clean primer pocket with one of those wire brush things you will enlarge the pocket and primers will fall out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pygmy Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 wildcat junkie, on 11 Feb 2016 - 9:31 PM, said: You didn't clean the sizing lube off your cases? I always clean the sizing lube off the cases with an old rag or a paper towel and a little elbow grease....I do the inside of the case neck with a little nylon bore brush and wipe it clean of lube with a Q-tip. As far as I remember, I've never had a misfire or hangfire with any of my metallic handloads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildcat junkie Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 (edited) I always clean the sizing lube off the cases with an old rag or a paper towel and a little elbow grease....I do the inside of the case neck with a little nylon bore brush and wipe it clean of lube with a Q-tip. As far as I remember, I've never had a misfire or hangfire with any of my metallic handloads. It's not misfires or hangfires that are the concern. It is increased bolt thrust. The case is supposed to grip the chamber walls in the milliseconds during peak chamber pressure. Having lube on the cases or a buildup of lube in the chamber from repeated use of cartridges that have sizing lube left on them will put more strain on the bolt logs. Not a huge concern for a modern bolt action rifle, but it could be a serious problem W/something like a Garrand or lever action that is not as strong as a bolt action. Besides, it's a lot easier to drop the cases into a vibrating tub cleaner as you prep them & leave it run for several hours than using "elbow grease" to thoroughly wipe each case free of all traces of lube. Edited February 12, 2016 by wildcat junkie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culvercreek hunt club Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Get one of the harbor frieght vibratory cleaner. I got one for x-mas a few years ago and bought the Lyman walnut shell media it works great. couple tips. #1 check at pet stores for crushed media. I can't remember which animal bedding it was used for but it is waaaay cheaper going that route. I also put about a table spoon of Brasso Polish in the media and run if for a few minutes to mix prior to putting in the casings. #2 I am sure about everyone here used dryer softener sheets. save your old ones. cut into strips about 1" wide and 4-5" long. drop 3-4 of them in the media when you add the casings. you wouldn't believe the dust that those things collect while moving around in there. One time use. Keeps the media much cleaner. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowguy 1 Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 There aren't any cons unless you consider time spent doing it a problem. You can as stated fine tune a gun and make it shoot fantastic. Best part is once you figure it all out you just make more. Same everything so nothing changes. One thing I'd say though is every serious reloader I know uses a RCBS, they're sturdy, easy to get parts for and their customer service is gotta be one of the best. Good luck w whatever you decide 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fasteddie Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Something to keep in mind is chambering may be slightly different in different rifles . What fits my NEF 25-06 might be tight or loose in your 25-06 . To test , just drop a round in the chamber but don't send the bolt home . If it's a snug fit and you close the bolt , you might not get the round back out . Just a thought ! My 2 sons that hunt both have Browning .270's . I had them try 3 reloads in each of their rifles and things were okay so I don't have to keep their brass separated . Lucked out on that . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldkevin Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) for you folks that reload check out sages reloading supply on facebook or his website at sagesreloadingsupply.com. great guy to work with. his fackbook page if you join is a group that knows what they are talking about and a wealth knowledge and help. his prices are great for brass and bullets ships fast. like if you order on Monday you will have the same week and he is Washington state. most brass is once fired. so check him out Edited February 23, 2016 by oldkevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culvercreek hunt club Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Something to keep in mind is chambering may be slightly different in different rifles . What fits my NEF 25-06 might be tight or loose in your 25-06 . To test , just drop a round in the chamber but don't send the bolt home . If it's a snug fit and you close the bolt , you might not get the round back out . Just a thought ! My 2 sons that hunt both have Browning .270's . I had them try 3 reloads in each of their rifles and things were okay so I don't have to keep their brass separated . Lucked out on that . I full length size any ammo that will be interchanged. (my 30-30 ammo is the only one that a few guns share at camp) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fasteddie Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 I full length size any ammo that will be interchanged. (my 30-30 ammo is the only one that a few guns share at camp) I havn't found it necessary to do with the two Brownings . If it was for someone else's rifle I would probably need to use the full length die . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbHunterNY Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 I have a .223 die set with full length sizing die. I think I've read full length dies wear out a case quicker than just re-sizing the neck. only .223 I've got is my varmint rifle. all the brass I have is fired from that gun. would it help brass life and accuracy to get a neck resizing die? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culvercreek hunt club Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) I have a .223 die set with full length sizing die. I think I've read full length dies wear out a case quicker than just re-sizing the neck. only .223 I've got is my varmint rifle. all the brass I have is fired from that gun. would it help brass life and accuracy to get a neck resizing die? "would it help brass life and accuracy to get a neck resizing die?" yes and maybe....but very likely yes and yes. (See semi comment below) I run the Lee 4 hole turret press. I put the FL die and neck die set up for each rifle caliber. New brass, pick ups or purchased once fired gets Fl sized and then it is all neck from there. (Unless, as I stated before it will be used in multiple rifles.) For my Fathers 7400 I FL size it all. the semi doesn't seem to function as well neck sized, even with bras fired from it. I have read to Fl all ammo for semi's but I am sure others here can comment better Edited February 23, 2016 by Culvercreek hunt club Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philoshop Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 My mentor, a gunsmith and military armorer, had this to say about reloading: "Go buy the book, and then go by the book." He started me with a Lee Load-All and scoop set in 1979 that I still use successfully for some calibers today. It doesn't have to be an expensive or complicated process. Keep it simple, and you'll know when it's time to upgrade certain parts of the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawnhu Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 I go with neck sizing for my bolt action, and full length to bump shoulder back just enough to relieve a tight bolt. X-Calibur Lighting Systems http://facebook.com/XCaliburLightingSystems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BizCT Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 I'm curious as to how many of you reload your own ammo. What have you found to be some of the pros and cons? I'm trying to figure out if it's really worth it for me. I'm looking to primarily reload my 6.8 spc as well as my 223 and 30-30. I have been saving all of my brass for a while now. It sucks having to order 6.8 spc online and to go through the dealer to get it. Nope. Have way too much ammo, will never shoot it all. Dad sold all the equipment on eBay a few years back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borngeechee Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Getting into reloading doesn't have to be expensive. Everything in these pictures cost me around $250. Its bare bones and basic but it gets the job done. Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thphtm Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 I just resize the case necks, maby after the 5th.time of reloading I might full length resize. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildcat junkie Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 I "partially" full length resize. I set my dies up so that the shoulder isn't pushed back. I resize the full neck yet the case body is barely resized. I like to feel the bolt offer some resistance just as it is fully closed. This is W/bolt actions. On most cartridges it is the primer pocket that finally gets loose after 12-15 reloads. No evidence of incipient case head separation on any of the rimless cartridges I reload. 30/40 Krag is another story though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawnhu Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 20160216_170349_001.jpgIMG_20160213_161355.jpgIMG_20160223_070917.jpg Getting into reloading doesn't have to be expensive. Everything in these pictures cost me around $250. Its bare bones and basic but it gets the job done. Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk Buddy of mine has the same hand press. Those are great powders also. Where did you get them from? X-Calibur Lighting Systems http://facebook.com/XCaliburLightingSystems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borngeechee Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Buddy of mine has the same hand press. Those are great powders also. Where did you get them from? X-Calibur Lighting Systems http://facebook.com/XCaliburLightingSystems Midsouth shooting suppliesSent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borngeechee Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 My first batch of 308 using 150 grain fmj over 46 grains of IMR 4064 Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culvercreek hunt club Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Is that a proven recipe for your gun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.