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Hand Loading Manual For Beginners?


grampy
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Finally, I'll be making up my own hand loads, starting with 270. Is there a manual out there for a beginner like myself? One that will go over each step? And give detailed information on setting dies, case trimming, bullet depth and so on. I have the Honady manual, but looking for another with more detail. I've researched the load info for what I'll be reloading, Nosler BT. And have that information. 

Just want to be sure I do everything right, and not miss something important while getting my feet wet.

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48 minutes ago, grampy said:

Finally, I'll be making up my own hand loads, starting with 270. Is there a manual out there for a beginner like myself? One that will go over each step? And give detailed information on setting dies, case trimming, bullet depth and so on. I have the Honady manual, but looking for another with more detail. I've researched the load info for what I'll be reloading, Nosler BT. And have that information. 

Just want to be sure I do everything right, and not miss something important while getting my feet wet.

I have the Nosler #4 and #5 manuals. I'm not sure about their latest editions. The #5 manual has a handy trajectory table that is based in ballistic coefficients.

In addition to manuals I would highly recommend "Quickload" software. It will allow you to fine tune loads for a particular rifle using the actual chamber dimensions as a factor. This is done by weighing the H2O capacity of the fired case.

For example, a load that is perfectly safe in my old M700 7mm-08 will be borderline high pressure in the  Savage Axis 7mm-08 that I load for now. The Savage has a minimum spec chamber while the M700 was at the high end of spec.

Edited by wildcat junkie
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1 hour ago, grampy said:

Finally, I'll be making up my own hand loads, starting with 270. Is there a manual out there for a beginner like myself? One that will go over each step? And give detailed information on setting dies, case trimming, bullet depth and so on. I have the Honady manual, but looking for another with more detail. I've researched the load info for what I'll be reloading, Nosler BT. And have that information. 

Just want to be sure I do everything right, and not miss something important while getting my feet wet.

I have  the 8th edition of the ABC’s of reloading , that  I would be more than happy to let you borrow for as long as you want. I started with this book and it covers all the basics. You could even copy the pages to keep. 

Pm me your address and I will mail it to you.. 

AA9DF2BE-1D14-4887-BAA0-3DB54ED93B2E.jpeg

Edited by rob-c
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I have  the 8th edition of the ABC’s of reloading , that  I would be more than happy to let you borrow for as long as you want. I started with this book and it covers all the basics. You could even copy the pages to keep. 
Pm me your address and I will mail it to you.. 
AA9DF2BE-1D14-4887-BAA0-3DB54ED93B2E.thumb.jpeg.f4fd2d945345c559eb49c6335afd9471.jpeg
I believe I have the same one...it deff covers all the basaes.

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The two books mentioned above are both excellent. They not only tell you how to perform a specific operation, but why it's necessary in the first place. Understanding why you're doing something is important to keeping your focus. Rule number one is don't allow yourself to become distracted in any way.

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I meant to post a link fir "Quickload in my last post but I forgot.

Here it is. https://www.neconos.com/details3.htm

Quickload will not teach you the basics. What it will do is enable you to explore the various factors that will affect chamber pressure and Mv. Ni "Book Recipe" will yield the same results in every rifle chambered for that cartridge.

Get a decent chronograph. Without one you are literally "shooting in the dark" as far as what your loads are performing.. You can monitor the Mv effects as you develop the load. I try for a lightly compressed load within CP/Mv envelope that achieves very small standard deviation. That usually occurs as the loads approach 100% load density or slightly beyond 100%. (compressed)

 

I developed this load on my kitchen deck with a chronograph using Quickload data.

These were the 1st 3 rounds on paper for this load at 100 yds.

mMw0jhO.jpg

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Reloading books are great. RCBS has a lot of videos  on how to . That said it's kind of nice to have a mentor looking over your shoulder making sure you got it right. I'm from the group  that you shouldn't deviate  from published data. One should also develop good reloading habits some are found in books others through experience. 

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12 hours ago, Nytracker said:

. I'm from the group  that you shouldn't deviate  from published data.

 

If your loads are developing higher Mv than what the "published data" suggests, then you should definitely "deviate" since higher Mv = higher chamber pressure. There is no free lunch. There is no such thing as a "fast barrel".  If the barrel is "fast" it is developing higher chamber pressure.

Even "published data" needs to approached with caution.

Edited by wildcat junkie
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5 minutes ago, wildcat junkie said:

If your loads are developing higher Mv than what the "published data" suggests, then you should definitely "deviate" since higher Mv = higherger chamber pressure. There is no free lunch. There is no such thing as a "fast barrel".  If the barrel is "fast" it is developing higher chamber pressure.

Even "published data" needs to approached with caution.

Man, I sure wish you and I lived closer! 

Thanks to everyone for their input. Will be ordering at least a couple of the suggestions posted here. 

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49 minutes ago, wildcat junkie said:

If your loads are developing higher Mv than what the "published data" suggests, then you should definitely "deviate" since higher Mv = higher chamber pressure. There is no free lunch. There is no such thing as a "fast barrel".  If the barrel is "fast" it is developing higher chamber pressure.

Even "published data" needs to approached with caution.

 

41 minutes ago, grampy said:

Man, I sure wish you and I lived closer! 

Thanks to everyone for their input. Will be ordering at least a couple of the suggestions posted here. 

Get a chronograph that reads Standard Deviation. That is the most important factor in accuracy.

I use this model. It is moderately priced, gives you all the data you need and parts are available fo you ever need them.

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/369265/pact-model-1-xp-chronograph-with-improved-sky-screen-mounting-bracket?utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Shooting+-+Chronographs%2C+Wind+Meters+%26+Timers&utm_content=369265&cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Shooting+-+Chronographs%2C+Wind+Meters+%26+Timers-_-PACT-_-369265&gclid=Cj0KCQiApILhBRD1ARIsAOXWTztWDSZp37Eu1MqtvXnnmxt8qox9BABgRoBDT95RDvVKCBUKVsdeAKEaAixFEALw_wcB

If you use the data from the Pact Chronograph and communicate some revenant data like fired case H2O capacity I can help you taylor loads for a specific rifle.

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33 minutes ago, Merlot said:

Just ordered a hand loading package offered by Midway. Major components to be delivered shortly. No more over the counter purchases of ammo. Friends load them, and their groupings show. Need to find out what my 7MM likes to eat the best.

I too started out with a "package" from Midway USA.

For deer sized game;

< 3100 fps .284 140 gr Nosler Ballistic Tips.

>3100 fps .284 139 gr Hornady Interbonds.

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6 hours ago, wildcat junkie said:

If your loads are developing higher Mv than what the "published data" suggests, then you should definitely "deviate" since higher Mv = higher chamber pressure. There is no free lunch. There is no such thing as a "fast barrel".  If the barrel is "fast" it is developing higher chamber pressure.

Even "published data" needs to approached with caution.

Agreed .. published data doesn't mean  you start at max load.  I always start in the middle and work up looking at accuracy  and for signs of pressure   flattened primers split cases tight extraction .

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Just remember....just because you COULD load to the upper limits, doesn't mean you should. Especially for whitetails, they aren't very hard to kill....most folks load to optimize their accuracy, not their power. 

As mentioned, a chronograph is a great piece of equipment, kind of a "deliar". It tells you what your load is actually doing, not what is is supposed to be doing. 

Never....again, NEVER, mix reloading with alcohol, or if you are tired and cant focus on what you are doing. No matter what, you can never be in a hurry. Take your time. I try to break down my sessions into steps....case preparation one night, clean the damn primer holes another, size and lube, prime, etc. I usually aim for completing a 100 rifle shells (that is, a preparation step) in a sitting. 

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On 12/25/2018 at 8:17 PM, Daveboone said:

Just remember....just because you COULD load to the upper limits, doesn't mean you should. Especially for whitetails, they aren't very hard to kill....most folks load to optimize their accuracy, not their power. 

As mentioned, a chronograph is a great piece of equipment, kind of a "deliar". It tells you what your load is actually doing, not what is is supposed to be doing. 

Never....again, NEVER, mix reloading with alcohol, or if you are tired and cant focus on what you are doing. No matter what, you can never be in a hurry. Take your time. I try to break down my sessions into steps....case preparation one night, clean the damn primer holes another, size and lube, prime, etc. I usually aim for completing a 100 rifle shells (that is, a preparation step) in a sitting. 

 

"Compressed loads" are your friend.

I use "Quickload" to find powders that achieve  their maximum Mv at up to 105% load density at a given chamber pressure ceiling.

Right now I am using either Alliant Rl 17 or Norma MRP in everything from 30/40 Krag to 8mm-06 Ackley Improved. All of my loads are ether very near 100% load density or slightly above.

I find that once full load density is achieved, 100% usable case capacity or more, standard deviation decreases along with group size. This is something only the use of a good chronograph can tell you.

Having the cases completely filled with powder, or slightly compressed, does wonders for consistency.

Norma MRP will often outperform other powders as far as Mv with significantly less chamber pressure. Many times one can not get enough MRP into the case, even when employing drop tubes during case filling,  to get anywhere near dangerous pressure levels. This has proven true with 280 Remington with 140 gr bullets and the 8mm-06 A.I with 200 gr bullets. In either situation, chamber pressure remains well below 60,000 psi.

This is one reason big magnum cases seldom achieve results at the same efficiency as cases in the .308-30-06-WSM capacity range unless the bore is .338" or more. 7mm or 8mm bores seem to be the sweet spot in these cases.

 

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"Compressed loads" are your friend.
I use "Quickload" to find powders that achieve  their maximum Mv at up to 105% load density at a given chamber pressure ceiling.
Right now I am using either Alliant Rl 17 or Norma MRP in everything from 30/40 Krag to 8mm-06 Ackley Improved. All of my loads are ether very near 100% load density or slightly above.
I find that once full load density is achieved, 100% usable case capacity or more, standard deviation decreases along with group size. This is something only the use of a good chronograph can tell you.
Having the cases completely filled with powder, or slightly compressed, does wonders for consistency.
Norma MRP will often outperform other powders as far as Mv with significantly less chamber pressure. Many times one can not get enough MRP into the case, even when employing drop tubes during case filling,  to get anywhere near dangerous pressure levels. This has proven true with 280 Remington with 140 gr bullets and the 8mm-06 A.I with 200 gr bullets. In either situation, chamber pressure remains well below 60,000 psi.
This is one reason big magnum cases seldom achieve results at the same efficiency as cases in the .308-30-06-WSM capacity range unless the bore is .338" or more. 7mm or 8mm bores seem to be the sweet spot in these cases.
 
I personally wouldn't suggest compressed loads for a newbie though

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I agree with Jerkman….some loads do achieve best results with compressed loads....my 45-70 with 30-31 for example....BUTTTTT....they are very high end loads designed for only modern firearms approved for same, and for the beginner reloader, it is more important that they learn to closely and carefully work up to a safe load.

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12 hours ago, Daveboone said:

I agree with Jerkman….some loads do achieve best results with compressed loads....my 45-70 with 30-31 for example....BUTTTTT....they are very high end loads designed for only modern firearms approved for same, and for the beginner reloader, it is more important that they learn to closely and carefully work up to a safe load.

Whether or not a compressed load is "high end" as far as chamber pressure depends on the powder.

In fact, using a powder that will not exceed the desired pressure at a compressed state is a built in safety factor.

Why has nobody addressed the extreme danger of loads that do nit fill the case sufficiently? 

While not a common occurrence with CF rifle loading, ut can easily happen with pistol loads.

http://www.reloadammo.com/liteload.htm

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All the above is fine, but if you are just starting out, get a couple of manuals. If using Nosler bullets get their manual plus one or two others, just for comparison. Keep it simple to start with. Once you are loading good ammo and want to get into cloverleafing your groups, then worry about Quickload and chronographs and everything else. Don't rely on youtube for info. There are a lot of wannabe experts that give pretty shaky info. Some are good, some are just plain scary! If you can, find somebody who loads that you trust is serious about it. Most experienced loaders will be more than glad to help get you started in the right direction. Never rely on loading data that somebody posts or gives you. Compare it to PUBLISHED loads first. And don't rush. Take your time and do it right. As you get more experience you will find it gets to be an addiction. You will end up with many cans of powder that have only a few shells loaded out of it because it just doesn't work for you. Same with bullets. Some will give you the performance you want, other will be better suited as fishing weights. And remember, what does well for others may be terrible for your specific gun. And don't get discouraged. I have loaded for one specific gun that seemed like nothing would perform well. Then you try a different powder or bullet or bullet weight and bingo, it is a tack pounder. Good luck in your new addiction!!!

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50 minutes ago, avg. joe said:

All the above is fine, but if you are just starting out, get a couple of manuals. If using Nosler bullets get their manual plus one or two others, just for comparison. Keep it simple to start with. Once you are loading good ammo and want to get into cloverleafing your groups, then worry about Quickload and chronographs and everything else. Don't rely on youtube for info. There are a lot of wannabe experts that give pretty shaky info. Some are good, some are just plain scary! If you can, find somebody who loads that you trust is serious about it. Most experienced loaders will be more than glad to help get you started in the right direction. Never rely on loading data that somebody posts or gives you. Compare it to PUBLISHED loads first. And don't rush. Take your time and do it right. As you get more experience you will find it gets to be an addiction. You will end up with many cans of powder that have only a few shells loaded out of it because it just doesn't work for you. Same with bullets. Some will give you the performance you want, other will be better suited as fishing weights. And remember, what does well for others may be terrible for your specific gun. And don't get discouraged. I have loaded for one specific gun that seemed like nothing would perform well. Then you try a different powder or bullet or bullet weight and bingo, it is a tack pounder. Good luck in your new addiction!!!

Thanks Joe!

Being a complete beginner to reloading, this approach of slow and steady to start, will work best for me. 

I have asked a couple guys I know who reload, to stop in and oversee my baby steps getting started. But neither seem to find time to actually do it.

Today is the day, I will go down and make up my first few rounds! I have everything needed, and have been reading manuals and "how to's" for months. 

Thanks to all here who have given advice. I appreciate it more than you know!

Will post back here, or in my journal, how it all goes. Of course actually test firing the rounds, will be the barometer of where I go next. With each round I'll gain experience. 

 

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My first round handloaded!

52.0 gr. H4831

Case length 2.540

CCI #200 primer.

Overall length  3.252 to match length of Federal Premium Nosler BT.

Bullet is one of a bunch of 140g Silvertips. given to me by Dinsdale. "thanks again Dan"

Took some time setting the bullet seating die. But good to go now, and that was one of the things I was worried about.

All case prep was fun.

Took notes and followed my manuals all the way through. The first steps are the hardest for any journey. I took those today. I'm really looking forward to see where this journey takes me. Experimenting with the rounds I make at the range, will be next. Will keep detailed notes.

I hope my reloading journey has me walking up on a deer killed with one of my own rounds!20181230_151039.thumb.jpg.bd737d0f9f0f28de9701dcabfc9d9ebb.jpg20181230_151228.thumb.jpg.aab0549d10bd1dd4e94d8f72f0cd9952.jpg

20181230_151039.jpg

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