Tuning a Prime bow

[BKhunter]

I'm on Long Island

[The_Real_TCIII]

39 minutes ago, Jeremy K said:

I hope you know where that is ,i've never even heard of it. 

Pretty sure its where Jaws was based lol

[The_Real_TCIII]

Is the dropaway cord tied onto that little brush?

 

Edited April 20, 2020 by The_Real_TCIII

[The_Real_TCIII]

 

 

Theres not much to installing that rest if you just want to re do it. Provided you have the cord

[BKhunter]

2 hours ago, The_Real_TCIII said:

 

 

Theres not much to installing that rest if you just want to re do it. Provided you have the cord

The more I dig into this the more and more I get upset about how this shop set up this bow. On the flip side I'm happy I am learning all of this and can set it up correctly. It looks like the tied the string directly to a bolt that comes off of the end of the limb. I need to retie the limb cable, but if I am short on string can I order any D loop cord? I haven't moved the rest down yet I am thinking this could impact arrow flight slightly and don't want to chase my tail.

Edited April 20, 2020 by BKhunter

[The_Real_TCIII]

Order a spool or d loop cord it’s cheap and good to have on hand. Lots of colors too


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[BowmanMike]

Tuning van be tricky,but it is worth the hassle. You are going to learn so much about bow setup and arrow flght. Just like tacos said,one step at a time. I went through it last year and a little more this year,and it can be frustrating,but keep readng and trying.

[dbHunterNY]

So my rest is fully up with about 9 inches of draw length to go.


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I dont remember how limb driven rests are but cable driven arrow rests should come up usually in the very last inch or so of draw so it drops sooner for clearance but makes sure its fully "cocked".

It's easy to tell tear with bare shafts. Carefully fold tears back flat with sheet of paper. Where the point went in will make a clean uniform asterisk looking hole the other end will be often a square like tear.

Need to make sure your timed perfect. Draw device like you have should help. Also start nock level with arrow shaft height through bottom 1/3 of berger button/rest mounting bolt hole. Sideways tear do weird things. I get that close first and then do up/down. If high nock tear move rest up ao arrow closer toward top of hole. That way you're not moving nock too far above level which will effect how solid the bow holds.

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[Jeremy K]

11 minutes ago, dbHunterNY said:

I dont remember how limb driven rests are but cable driven arrow rests should come up usually in the very last inch or so of draw so it drops sooner for clearance but makes sure its fully "cocked".

It's easy to tell tear with bare shafts. Carefully fold tears back flat with sheet of paper. Where the point went in will make a clean uniform asterisk looking hole the other end will be often a square like tear.

Need to make sure your timed perfect. Draw device like you have should help. Also start nock level with arrow shaft height through bottom 1/3 of berger button/rest mounting bolt hole. Sideways tear do weird things. I get that close first and then do up/down. If high nock tear move rest up ao arrow closer toward top of hole. That way you're not moving nock too far above level which will effect how solid the bow holds.

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Did you look at his paper ? There is no way you can read those. 

[sodfather]

What kind of Prime is that?

[The_Real_TCIII]

In my experience getting the nock height right can get rid of side to side tears or bring them in a lot, I then take care of whats left with centershot adjustment. Assuming hes got properly spined arrows

 

@BKhunter whats the 

 

Draw Length:

Poundage:

Arrow brand/length/spine:

 

You may have no tuning issues at all aside from that cable being tied to your axle, Id definitely put that on the brush where it belongs

[BKhunter]

1 hour ago, sodfather said:

What kind of Prime is that?

It is a Centergy

[BKhunter]

49 minutes ago, The_Real_TCIII said:

In my experience getting the nock height right can get rid of side to side tears or bring them in a lot, I then take care of whats left with centershot adjustment. Assuming hes got properly spined arrows

 

@BKhunter whats the 

 

Draw Length:

Poundage:

Arrow brand/length/spine:

 

You may have no tuning issues at all aside from that cable being tied to your axle, Id definitely put that on the brush where it belongs

My draw length is 27.75 but again, not sure if this was set 100% accurate so will measure in the draw board (it does feel right when I draw back and anchor). I'm shooting 70# with easton FMJ 28.5 inch from the through of the nock to end of carbon with a 340 spine. I have a 125 grain point upfront. 

[The_Real_TCIII]

23 minutes ago, BKhunter said:

My draw length is 27.75 but again, not sure if this was set 100% accurate so will measure in the draw board (it does feel right when I draw back and anchor). I'm shooting 70# with easton FMJ 28.5 inch from the through of the nock to end of carbon with a 340 spine. I have a 125 grain point upfront. 

@sodfather run that through the OnTarget app wouldya?

[Einsamer Krieger]

I tune with fletched arrows, just saying.  Rise your notch just a little, then proceed with left or right if needed,

[dbHunterNY]

[mention=770]sodfather[/mention] run that through the OnTarget app wouldya?

Sodfather should chime in. More info needed though? Assuming he's shooting the X (5mm) diameter Fmj for nock and insert weight, no wraps, and standard 3 blazer vanes. That setup is under spined. Perfect spine is 0.324 or .300 spine shaft. If he lower poundage to 65lbs he'd be good. Used calculator from Victory arrows.

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[sodfather]

10 hours ago, The_Real_TCIII said:

@sodfather run that through the OnTarget app wouldya?

Just ran the numbers with your specs and your under spine 

[dbHunterNY]

Did you look at his paper ? There is no way you can read those. 

Likely can if you do what I said and fold tears back. I admit from the picture it's difficult to tell.

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[moog5050]

I didn’t read through everything but why not just shoot a bareshaft along with fletched at 20yds?   That will tell you quick how you need to adjust the tune.   

[The_Real_TCIII]

BK can you put a 100 grain tip on and shoot through paper?


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[BKhunter]

57 minutes ago, The_Real_TCIII said:

BK can you put a 100 grain tip on and shoot through paper?


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I'm going to give that a try this afternoon. Work picked up after I created this post so after I was able to retie the rest to the limb I got swamped. Thanks for running those numbers for me! I will give the 100 grain point a go and report back.

[BowmanMike]

4 hours ago, moog5050 said:

I didn’t read through everything but why not just shoot a bareshaft along with fletched at 20yds?   That will tell you quick how you need to adjust the tune.   

Maybe start at 10 yds,with that tear you might miss at 20. Ask me how i know.

[Lawdwaz]

2 hours ago, BKhunter said:

 Work picked up after I created this post so after I was able to retie the rest to the limb I got swamped. .

You need to move to WNY............plenty of "me" time here. 

 

[moog5050]

11 minutes ago, BowmanMike said:

Maybe start at 10 yds,with that tear you might miss at 20. Ask me how i know.

lol - you may be right if the bow is off by that much

[BKhunter]

So I downloaded the pinwheel app and entered all my info information the prime centergy and am getting different values then the above unless I’m using the app wrong.

 

 

 

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