dbHunterNY

bank it off the dumbells a couple times. shaft will weaken up. just make sure you do them all so one doesn't better than another.

same here except i got an Apple Archery one that is a pain in the a** going from bow to bow. it does the job no worse, but ease of use is nothing like a LCA Ez Press or X-Press.

i have no reservations about shooting the mechanicals i have. i completely agree with the last tuning statement though.

nice!

haha... in all honesty you should probably not do that. it's dishonest. better yet fill the hole with water from a garden hose. it'll leave right away. keep doing it and it'll find somewhere else or run out to bite ya.

just mound up a big old pile of dirt with a deep hole in her flowers. walk by when she notices and just be like "Oh boy! Phil's in trouble! You should ground him!" do that a couple times and she'll shoot it herself.

mine too.

crazy story. deer are definitely tough as nails and have power behind them. some bucks i've shot would have me like a tree'd bear cub whining away. you've got more wits than i. hind hooves are probably worse than the antlers that close.

multiple times during the fight they each laughed off certain events. neither one was serious about wrecking the other, with exception mayweather wasn't going to flat out lose. it was a faster paced younger equivalent of Romney vs Holyfield. Fundraising event. Not a title bout. many shots mcgregor took in the first few rounds looked like a pillow fight and not like he normally does. body language and rotation just wasn't there. i wasn't impressed at all with mayfeather even more so. i won't say that he's not an awesome boxer with skills and unhuman like endurance. however, if you claim to be the best ever you can't duck your head the whole time or turn around and cover on multiple occasions. one last thing... a TKO should only be used if any part of your opponent hits the deck so many times. simply being dog tired is more of a DNF. McGregor was responsive too. He could've covered up and saved himself a bit to make it through until the end and then had one last KO drive attempt. he wasn't thinking, gave up, or didn't want it that bad. i could think of maybe a 100 million reasons i probably would and not lose any sleep though too.

Having boxed and done a discipline of martial arts i completely agree with this, that said i'd think would be a logical conclusion. also MMA is less restrictive offensively than boxing. top boxer with very little martial arts background would get his/her a** handed to them from a top MMA fighter. Unlike many opinions related to the convo i don't favor or routinely watch one or the other.

sounds like work.

my money wouldn't be on any "scrub" genetics but instead on the idea it was injured or injured the pedicle. if it shows up next season the same way then i'd go with busted pedicle. i've known of multiple bucks to be injured on one side either during velvet or from body injury. following year they grew into nice typical racks. velvet injury does weird things like in the picture. body injury can effect a rack by stunting growth or causing a lack of uniform development. just what i've seen.

You should definitely let DEC know 1-866-640-0652. That's the whole idea the keep them from spreading and doing more damage. Forester Rangers will likely come hang a purple box trap for them that'll sit there throughout the summer. I'm not sure why some are so against Ash. i think it's splits just great! burns just fine with a short stack on an outdoor stove or camp stove.

yea i agree. i've had arrows that were borderline too weak drive tacks. they didn't paper tune worth a damn because they were flexing so much. unless i've got room to paper tune at different distances, i get it within an inch and just move to shooting outside to tune the rest of the way. some bows i've dove into yoke, tiller, and cam rotation tuning until the end. others i gave up and it just seemed like i was chasing my tail. i think a bow tuned to a person is the optimum way. we're all physically different when we shoot. i'd rather people do the shooting portion of the tuning process then shooting it myself. when i think of form i think of someone just doing what they're supposed to, not necessarily making them look like a carbon copy or formed to fit mold compared to the next guy/gal at full draw.

if you're grouping broadhead tipped arrows or hitting the same spot it's probably not really form. some bows just tune quick and easy others seem to be finicky. with FP and broadheads that far off means there's still much more accuracy, forgiveness, and performance left in the bow.

became a QDMA volunteer. seriously, it's given me access to experts in various fields, including whitetail biologists. knowledge and resources about deer biology, ecology, habitat, and hunting more than my brain can take in are now available to me any day of the week. if you want something more specific and less all encompassing, some on here aren't going to like it but my answer would be implementing antler restrictions. without it, doing everything else was just creating awesome young bucks with great potential in massive quantities that ended up usually dead their first year. it was to say the least discouraging and not worth the effort given what people in the area were shooting and felt they had to shoot. now that deer are fair game only until 2.5+ years old, they can hold their own a bit more and we see bucks naturally making it into older age classes. even now seeing potential turn into results, we'd have a whole lot of crappy excuses and finger pointing like before we put restrictions into place. nothing bothers me more than blaming someone else for your trigger pull. you and you alone squeezed that trigger. be happy with the deer you took and if you're not, keep your finger off the damn trigger next time. sit back. enjoy being able to hunt.

i've learned it depends on the individual deer. it's something unnatural they notice and that's enough. i don't think they care so much about the camera so much as they associate it with something bad. your scent/presence is usually around it or on it. around now all my cams are moved to a height as high as my 6' stature can reach and angled down. they definitely pay much less attention to them then. sometimes you just don't get the most ideal photos.

those hairs are all broken down strands on the surface of the string. cables will get the same way but you see it on the string more because it's cutting through the air so much and oscillating at the end of its travel. when you have broken strands like that it just makes it more prone to stretch and be inconsistent too. also it's probably louder. hope it doesn't break on you. hard to say. make sure none of the serving around cams, cable guard (no serving, just look at cable/string), or center serving at your nock point is worn and showing string material.

i wouldn't leave any of my stuff there. hunter could have ASSumptions and hurt feelings. DEC thinks it's handled but you still have to deal with it.

i think that means yours is just shooting it well enough with better or more consistent sabot fit/engagement with the rifling. i've noticed between the two barrel and bore quality is night and day. that said if they both work out to 150 yards then shoot that far and the dead deer don't say any different.

go 50 yards or the next trail down wind from there. you never saw the bait pile. let the hunter do what they'll do. you could tell DEC. Eco's may or may not check it out depending on the individual ECO. it's not dropping a dime on them in my mind. they just made it your problem.

.350" spine for the Whitetail 350's should be fine with a 125gr head. original string might have cam rotation slightly off for vertical nock travel. center shot is slightly off though too which could be causing the up and down discrepancy. closer you get either a vertical or horizontal tear the more it'll actually help the other to an extent. if you go to 100gr heads like has been said it could take out just enough flex to pull them in closer. honestly the original string worries me. often old strings go unchecked in places like under serving and that's where strings will break. when you shoot does the string friz up a bit and look like hell until you apply more wax? it probably does, meaning it should be replaced. in all honestly though if you can group your broadhead tipped arrows well enough then adjust sights to them. watch for arrows drifting to the right more as you move back. means your center shot is slightly off.

When I bought it i was new to muzzleloading. I was going on a destination hunt and told by my cousin the guide that I had to shoot 200+ yards. I bought something i knew would make any issue me and not the gun. They all can really get the job down though otherwise they wouldn't continue to be on the shelf without issue. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Funny when I started not that long ago, distances were assumed to be around 20 yards. A nice rugged and straight arrow was the arrow to use. chronographs weren't ever mentioned. Now if my bow can't drop them in from as far as I can out of my sight im heart broken and think something's wrong. Not quite sure when I lost my mind but it happened. Haha Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

couple years ago i had a Bear Super Kodiak delaminate right before the season. Bear said throw it at a deer or we can just send you a new one. So i got a new one. Same thing though i had to use my compound and get it back up and going during the season. Problem is by then tags were filled and the compound was hung up.