Rusted Trucks

[Five Seasons]

Bought my used 2003 silverado 3 years ago. First truck and didn't do a great inspection and it was cheap. It seems to just be one thing after another. It'll run good for a while then something new pops up. I only drive during the cold winter days and deer hunting. Right now she's at 130k but a northern rust bucket. She is not without her problems, but gets me where I'm going.

My abs has been kicking in at slow stops for about 4k miles. I've assumed this to be a speed sensor in one of the hubs but just dealt with it. Still stopped just fine. Both rear calipers, pads and rotors are only about 6k old, front I do not know. Well 2 weekends ago i lost power steering. I find my cooler has rusted. A $25 part and an hour to get her fixed in my garage. no problem. Then last weekend I start to lose brake pedal pressure. I don't want to mess with it so I take it to a local mechanic. Keep in mind I live in Mississippi now, but this truck spent 10 years in Buffalo NY.

The guy calls and tells me a rear brake line is rusted but he's not sure he even wants to work on the truck because everything's so rusted. Could get real pricey if he has rusted on lines to the abs or sized bleeder valves and everything he touches might break he says. I finally convince him to at least please give it a try. I don't really know what to think... I'm wanting to pay the guy because I don't have a lift, tools or time to do it myself. He says really nobody down south will want to touch it.

/end of rant about rusty trucks and southerns just not understanding our frustrations.

[G-Man]

Just like they would freeze if they had to hunt in the snow, it's a different world below the mason dixion line....

[Caveman]

I don't trust a mechanic who is afraid to break things. 

[rob-c]

that is not a real mechanic, really wont touch because of rust. I have worked on vehicles were I spent way more time heating bolts/nuts to get them off with out breaking than it took to change the part.  

[Five Seasons]

that is not a real mechanic, really wont touch because of rust. I have worked on vehicles were I spent way more time heating bolts/nuts to get them off with out breaking than it took to change the part.  

 

which was exactly his point. They just don't do that down here. Not used to it and it's not normal. The funny part that got me is that I told him I'd pay for it. That I fully understood the labor involved. That was what got me. Back home they take the truck and do it. Charge me the labor and i cry and move on. Down here technique isn't probably as good but the labor rate is less so it's probably a wash. idk...

[ants]

If something breaks, because of rust and corrosion, then it needs to be replaced anyway. NY road salt just kills cars. car makers have come a long way in treating metal for rust prevention but salt is still salt. 

My friend buys cars down south and resells them here in NY. It is amazing how clean the undercarriage of a 10 year old southern car is, compared to a 2 or 3 year old NY car.

[rob-c]

which was exactly his point. They just don't do that down here. Not used to it and it's not normal. The funny part that got me is that I told him I'd pay for it. That I fully understood the labor involved. That was what got me. Back home they take the truck and do it. Charge me the labor and i cry and move on. Down here technique isn't probably as good but the labor rate is less so it's probably a wash. idk...

 

oh I get what your saying but that's like being a doctor and saying oh I cant operate he's to fat. how can you call yourself a mechanic when you fear rust...

[Jeremy K]

I had a 2000 silverado with the same issues . I tried fixing one brake line and ended up doing all of them in the winter with no heat in the garage. Its a known problem in that year range. My ABS was also kicking in at low speeds, the mounting area that the wheel speed sensors mount to get rusty and push the sensor away from the encoder inside the spindle . The guy i bought it from had taken the fuse out of the ABS because he nearly crashed into a parked car when the truck wouldn't stop. I can understand where the mechanic is coming from in this case ,unless he he just trying to save you money by not taking on the job and ultimately telling you that you need all the lines changed. The lines share the same holders and they WILL break when trying to just repair one of them . 

Edited September 17, 2015 by Jeremy K

[ncountry]

My 2002 2500hd had the same problem. I did the work myself , but I don't think I spent more than $400.00 and replaced every brake line and caliper on the truck .(no messing with rusted,rounded off brake line fittings and bleeders). Once one line rusts through, the others aren't far behind.    Sounds like a spoiled southern mechanic.

[ants]

I have had 2 chevy's that had the ABS sensor problem.I would get it fixed and a year later it would go out again. On both trucks.  I finally just pulled the ABS fuse

(on both trucks) and just went with  standard, old school, brakes.

Edited September 17, 2015 by ants

[HectorBuckBuster]

They now make pre bent stainless steel brake line sets for these trucks. You are looking about $300 for all lines in SS. Also sometime a bad front wheel bearing will cause the ABS to kick in. I believe I even seen the S.S Brake lines for about $100 bucks on ebay. If you brake lines are going, I am sure your fuel lines are about to go. They tend to rust out in the first bend infront of the gas tank, in the second rubber mounting bracket. Just fixed mine the other day, just out the first 2 foot and repaired and with in a minute of running leaked another foot infront of the first leak, so ended up doing the next 6 feet.

[Five Seasons]

I had a 2000 silverado with the same issues . I tried fixing one brake line and ended up doing all of them in the winter with no heat in the garage. Its a known problem in that year range. My ABS was also kicking in at low speeds, the mounting area that the wheel speed sensors mount to get rusty and push the sensor away from the encoder inside the spindle . The guy i bought it from had taken the fuse out of the ABS because he nearly crashed into a parked car when the truck wouldn't stop. I can understand where the mechanic is coming from in this case ,unless he he just trying to save you money by not taking on the job and ultimately telling you that you need all the lines changed. The lines share the same holders and they WILL break when trying to just repair one of them . 

 

my goal is to do all the lines. I'm a pretty competent garage mechanic, but I also put a price on my time. In this case, doing all the lines even if I don't route them the factory way to get another 2 years out of the truck is all I want. Without a lift it's a pain in the ass job that i'm willing to pay for. My search of the net shows I can expect labor to be anywhere from 500 to 1500 and that does suck, and I think his point is that my truck is dying and wants to know if it's worth it... and with 2 weeks till opening day I need a truck!

 

They now make pre bent stainless steel brake line sets for these trucks. You are looking about $300 for all lines in SS. Also sometime a bad front wheel bearing will cause the ABS to kick in. I believe I even seen the S.S Brake lines for about $100 bucks on ebay. If you brake lines are going, I am sure your fuel lines are about to go. They tend to rust out in the first bend infront of the gas tank, in the second rubber mounting bracket. Just fixed mine the other day, just out the first 2 foot and repaired and with in a minute of running leaked another foot infront of the first leak, so ended up doing the next 6 feet.

 

yeah if the guy doesn't fix it i'll do it myself. I probably wont go stainless as I dont expect the truck to last me that much longer, but at least I'll get the coated lines. I'm sure my fuel lines are close to shit and I know i have a small coolant leak. However if my fuel goes out I might not die where is if my brakes go out I might. this will be the second set of lines on this truck and it's amazing to see how many people have had this issue and the lack of GMs response to it. Claiming it's not a safety issue lol.

 

 

I have had 2 chevy's that had the ABS sensor problem.I would get it fixed and a year later it would go out again. On both trucks.  I finally just pulled the ABS fuse

(on both trucks) and just went with  standard, old school, brakes.

 

 

I've heard a lot of guys do that too. Doesn't your light stay on in your dash though?

Edited September 18, 2015 by Belo

[ants]

my goal is to do all the lines. I'm a pretty competent garage mechanic, but I also put a price on my time. In this case, doing all the lines even if I don't route them the factory way to get another 2 years out of the truck is all I want. Without a lift it's a pain in the ass job that i'm willing to pay for. My search of the net shows I can expect labor to be anywhere from 500 to 1500 and that does suck, and I think his point is that my truck is dying and wants to know if it's worth it... and with 2 weeks till opening day I need a truck!

 

 

yeah if the guy doesn't fix it i'll do it myself. I probably wont go stainless as I dont expect the truck to last me that much longer, but at least I'll get the coated lines. I'm sure my fuel lines are close to shit and I know i have a small coolant leak. However if my fuel goes out I might not die where is if my brakes go out I might. this will be the second set of lines on this truck and it's amazing to see how many people have had this issue and the lack of GMs response to it. Claiming it's not a safety issue lol.

 

 

 

 

I've heard a lot of guys do that too. Doesn't your light stay on in your dash though?

Yes it does but screw it. After replacing sensors on a regular basis I didn't really care about the light being on.

[jjb4900]

aren't mechanics only allowed to charge a set amount of hours of labor for specific jobs? I was always under the impression that if say a brake job calls for 3.5 hours of labor that is what they're allowed to charge whether it takes them 30 minutes or 8 hours......that alone might make a mechanic reluctant to take on a nightmare of a job.

Edited September 18, 2015 by jjb4900

[phade]

aren't mechanics only allowed to charge a set amount of hours of labor for specific jobs? I was always under the impression that if say a brake job calls for 3.5 hours of labor that is what they're allowed to charge whether it takes them 30 minutes or 8 hours......that alone might make a mechanic reluctant to take on a nightmare of a job.

 

Commissionable labor hours...usually mechanics and collision repair shops today use computer software with allocated repair and replace times for certain tasks. These hours are simply preset hours and can be overridden. It is not typically a binding requirement they charge X hours for a job in most states. Differences in software even exist. Ultramate vs. CCC Pathways had different time allotments for tasks about 50% of the time when I estimated.

 

What is likely the case is that he knows that rusted brake lines, replacing one, likely means having to replace all or replacing one and then another breaks shortly thereafter requiring a revisit and could be a job that turns into a nightmare for him and the client. Even despite the client saying he'll pay, sometimes a job isn't worth it to that person because of the headaches. Don't forget too, this is a new to him vehicle and new to him client.

 

I agree on bypassing the ABS, especially down south, on a truck with limited use.

[shawnhu]

my goal is to do all the lines. I'm a pretty competent garage mechanic, but I also put a price on my time. In this case, doing all the lines even if I don't route them the factory way to get another 2 years out of the truck is all I want. Without a lift it's a pain in the ass job that i'm willing to pay for. My search of the net shows I can expect labor to be anywhere from 500 to 1500 and that does suck, and I think his point is that my truck is dying and wants to know if it's worth it... and with 2 weeks till opening day I need a truck!

yeah if the guy doesn't fix it i'll do it myself. I probably wont go stainless as I dont expect the truck to last me that much longer, but at least I'll get the coated lines. I'm sure my fuel lines are close to shit and I know i have a small coolant leak. However if my fuel goes out I might not die where is if my brakes go out I might. this will be the second set of lines on this truck and it's amazing to see how many people have had this issue and the lack of GMs response to it. Claiming it's not a safety issue lol.

I've heard a lot of guys do that too. Doesn't your light stay on in your dash though?

Disabling the abs does not affect inspection or insurance.

X-Calibur Lighting Systems

http://facebook.com/XCaliburLightingSystems

[shawnhu]

aren't mechanics only allowed to charge a set amount of hours of labor for specific jobs? I was always under the impression that if say a brake job calls for 3.5 hours of labor that is what they're allowed to charge whether it takes them 30 minutes or 8 hours......that alone might make a mechanic reluctant to take on a nightmare of a job.

I believe what you are referring to as standard billable time is just that, a standard. Dealers will often use this, as they have a wealth of power tools to speed up their jobs and charge you maximum. Smaller mechanic shops will generally suffer from these rates since they work on all sorts of cars and will require much more specialized tools they may not have.

It's not required as far as I know, and a good mechanic will work with you in terms of trying to save you money, while staying profitable.

X-Calibur Lighting Systems

http://facebook.com/XCaliburLightingSystems

[Five Seasons]

aren't mechanics only allowed to charge a set amount of hours of labor for specific jobs? I was always under the impression that if say a brake job calls for 3.5 hours of labor that is what they're allowed to charge whether it takes them 30 minutes or 8 hours......that alone might make a mechanic reluctant to take on a nightmare of a job.

 

basically it. He said he wouldn't quote me and it could just add up and for me to know to be prepared for it. I could take it home and do a little bit at a time in my driveway or donate the truck, and i'm not prepared to be truckless. Just bought a brand new 15 explorer limited and do not want 2 car payments.

 

Disabling the abs does not affect inspection or insurance.

X-Calibur Lighting Systems

http://facebook.com/XCaliburLightingSystems

 

inspections, another thing we don't have here. I was more just wondering because it would be annoying.

[Jeremy K]

Another piece of advise if you plan to do all the lines at once,they will all come out of the ABS block under the drivers seat,if you take the lines off you will introduce air into the ABS block,a special scan tool is needed to activate the valves to bleed the air through the ABS block ,or you can do what I did and wait to change the wheel speed sensors (or put the fuse back in) so that the air is pushed past the ABS block and can be bled out at the wheels. When the ABS activates it will push the air through.

[shawnhu]

basically it. He said he wouldn't quote me and it could just add up and for me to know to be prepared for it. I could take it home and do a little bit at a time in my driveway or donate the truck, and i'm not prepared to be truckless. Just bought a brand new 15 explorer limited and do not want 2 car payments.

inspections, another thing we don't have here. I was more just wondering because it would be annoying.

You can then always pull the bulb behind the cluster

X-Calibur Lighting Systems

http://facebook.com/XCaliburLightingSystems

[Nomad]

Hey some guys and pick and chose what work they take. Friend used to roof on the side , no city houses, only walkable ones, and only did tear offs not go overs.

Had more work than he could ever do .

[Al Bundy]

I had a shop refuse to give me my car back after they looked at it.  Brakes were grinding and they said something like it was the worst car they had ever seen, completely rusted and not safe to drive. The car was old and had some rust and did need pads and maybe rotors but that was it. They shoved an estimate at me for several thousand and told me in no uncertain terms they were not letting me drive the car out of there. Ahhh no. I was polite at first and said no I will take my car thanks . It escalated from there and I finally said if they did not give me my car they could explain to the police why they were withholding my property. They wanted me to sign a legal waiver saying they were not responsible if anything happened.  Took the car home and replaced the pads and rotors in a parking lot.