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What's the best hunting knife?


thomashoard1909
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Nothing special about my knife other than the fact that it does anything I have ever asked of it. It is a typical military Kabar style knife with the top blade ground down to keep from cutting off a finger when reaching up into the chest cavity. The steel is phenomenal for keeping an edge, and it can be used for lopping off branches or any other unplanned needs.

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On ‎10‎/‎23‎/‎2017 at 11:58 AM, stoneam2006 said:

I use a k-bar 6 or 8 inch fixed with a gut hook orange handle that aunt had engraved with our names on it (all the hunters in the family perk of living in Olean with family at cutco) I put a really nice edge on it always but use a browning hatchet to split sternum and tail bone. Works great can be done in just a few min.

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Going to ask a stupid question here    I don't split the sternum nor tail bone, should I be? I know a lot don't . Whats the pros and cons? I have no trouble climbing in and cutting the esophagus pretty darn high( without cutting myself) and I do know that's a pretty large reason meat could spoil   And keep in mind I don't process my deer myself. I drop off at the processor .

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Going to ask a stupid question here    I don't split the sternum nor tail bone, should I be? I know a lot don't . Whats the pros and cons? I have no trouble climbing in and cutting the esophagus pretty darn high( without cutting myself) and I do know that's a pretty large reason meat could spoil   And keep in mind I don't process my deer myself. I drop off at the processor .
No idea lol just the way I was taught

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Tc , for $7 Buck will restore the factory edge and polish the blade .

I had the same  knife but the saw/ gut hook was a seatbelt cutter / pry blade , the liner lock was prone to failure on mine . 

Knife guys call it a spine whack test, open the blade and somewhat lightly tap the back of the blade on a wood block or kitchen counter , the lock should hold not fold .Mine would fold on a light tap on the palm of my hand .

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Tc , for $7 Buck will restore the factory edge and polish the blade .
I had the same  knife but the saw/ gut hook was a seatbelt cutter / pry blade , the liner lock was prone to failure on mine . 
Knife guys call it a spine whack test, open the blade and somewhat lightly tap the back of the blade on a wood block or kitchen counter , the lock should hold not fold .Mine would fold on a light tap on the palm of my hand .

Thank you, I will look into that. And I'll try the tap test when I get in my tree later
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The best hunting knife is one that has some meaning for me. Any knife will pretty much get the job done. But I carry a buck knife my brother gave me or the old sheath knife my Dad had. That knife has cleaned more trout than I can even imagine.  I like it to be part of my good day when I get a deer. To pull out that old knife that was my Dad's. 

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On 10/23/2017 at 12:25 PM, growalot said:

That Cabelas folding knife...I mentioned to Mr . B ,it had been a x mas gift..."You payed that much for my hunting knife!" See he knows I'm bad about losing stuff in the field..."Well it didn't cost me that ..bought 3 on sale 39.00, feel better?" ...yes yes I do  Glad he did though it holds a good edge.

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My brother bought me this one years ago and I’m always losing and finding it. I used it Friday it does a nice job. I wish I could sharpen it but I am terrible at it028823e05092203ec3752ea893b53158.jpg&key=62439e2627b91234f4c05bd4753e0f16ebdd6f0a76fe711e205d4e6da7904c26


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A worksharp is a great investment. Very easy to use once you understand it. Good for all knives around the house and even good for light work on garden tools and mower blades.

You can get them on sale for $60. Purest nights it be a fan but I love it.


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 Worksharp makes many systems . The Guided Worksharp , non motorized non belt system is a nice cheap way to go and will get really good edges on your blades .

But be advised the motorized belt ones will change your edges to a convex one . Good for some types not for all .

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On 10/25/2017 at 5:40 PM, turkeyfeathers said:

Going to ask a stupid question here    I don't split the sternum nor tail bone, should I be? I know a lot don't . Whats the pros and cons? I have no trouble climbing in and cutting the esophagus pretty darn high( without cutting myself) and I do know that's a pretty large reason meat could spoil   And keep in mind I don't process my deer myself. I drop off at the processor .

I guess it helps cool down faster...never did either one myself, but that's the idea.

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On 10/25/2017 at 5:40 PM, turkeyfeathers said:

Going to ask a stupid question here    I don't split the sternum nor tail bone, should I be? I know a lot don't . Whats the pros and cons? I have no trouble climbing in and cutting the esophagus pretty darn high( without cutting myself) and I do know that's a pretty large reason meat could spoil   And keep in mind I don't process my deer myself. I drop off at the processor .

Don't have to just helps cool the carcass faster I hang mine but not in a cooler so the faster it cools the better. When hung in a cooler it isn't worth it., they will split it if they feel it's necessary.I would recommend splitting the pelvic bone for sure it allows the hind quarters to separate. and cool much faster. If you plan on getting a shoulder mount do NOT split the sternum or you will need a new cape.

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On 10/29/2017 at 11:36 AM, The_Real_TCIII said:

My brother bought me this one years ago and I’m always losing and finding it. I used it Friday it does a nice job. I wish I could sharpen it but I am terrible at it028823e05092203ec3752ea893b53158.jpg


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Look into one of those lansky sharpener systems. I have the diamond stone Lansky it puts a razor edge on knives. Once you get a good edge on a knife use a set of ceramic rods to keep the edge. Once the blade gets nicked break out the lansky and work through the stones. It doesn't take very long but longer than the work sharp kits. I like the idea of not having to replace belts and stuff also mine will work without electricity.

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