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ATbuckhunter
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11/32" parallel Port Orford cedar, 420-430gr raw shaft weight, 60-65# spine, 3 fletch  5 1/2" burned shield, LW helical, file sharpened 125gr Bear Razorhead.

 

Archery001.jpg

 

Archery004.jpg

Those are some pretty arrows, and the Razorheads have been getting it done for a long time.

 

I shoot Gold Tip Traditional 5575/400's. 3 fletch, 4" parabolic, left helical, with 125 gr. original Woodsman broadheads. I use the same fluorescent yellow hen feathers, with a black cock feather. The yellow really shows up well for me.

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11/32" parallel Port Orford cedar, 420-430gr raw shaft weight, 60-65# spine, 3 fletch  5 1/2" burned shield, LW helical, file sharpened 125gr Bear Razorhead.

 

Archery001.jpg

 

Archery004.jpg

Pretty much the same arrow for me with the exception of the broadhead... I like the 125 gr Zwicki 2 blades. My arrows are usually hardwood and I like a total weight of around 600gr

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for my Evo (345 fps IBO, 70lbs) compound .... Easton 340 Lightspeed 3D with blazers and 100gr head... total 420gr.

 

for my 60lb Bowmaddness (330fps IBO, 60lbs) compound (3D bow and backup hunting bow).... Easton 400 Hexx (7.2 gpi) with blazers and 100gr head... total about 340gr.

 

Bear Super Kodiak recurve.... Goldtip Traditional Hunter 5575(400) with a brass insert, 20gr insert weight, and 100gr Hell Razor head.... total about 560gr.

 

...what I have has worked and it's what I've got.  been thinking about going heavier once I need more arrows for one of them.

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Easton Carbon Raider Platinum 65-80 with 2 inch Blazer vanes out my Diamond Marquise

 

Custom Black Eagle executioner out of the new Mission crossbow - oops those are bolts not arrows!

 

both will be shooting Rages

Edited by Fletch
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  • 2 weeks later...

Last year I bought some C-EZ reflective stickers on after season clearance.  different sizes for treestands and such but will probably put a strip on each of my arrows by the vanes.  don't intend to use lighted nocks even though they work good in low light spotting shots.  my arrows are just expensive already.  should help me find them quick enough low light with a flashlight.  i'll find out.

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Last year I bought some C-EZ reflective stickers on after season clearance.  different sizes for treestands and such but will probably put a strip on each of my arrows by the vanes.  don't intend to use lighted nocks even though they work good in low light spotting shots.  my arrows are just expensive already.  should help me find them quick enough low light with a flashlight.  i'll find out.

 

I was practicing the other day and had one shot where my arrow deflected off of the shaft and fletch of another one that was already in the target. The arrow buried itself in the grass about 25 feet behind the target. If it wasnt for my lighted knock I would not have found it at all.

 

4B7F35FD-99C4-4651-8306-E21C2DA3FF7E_zps

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any lighted nocks you prefer or choose to stay away from?

 

I like the Nockturnals, they are easy to use, easy to install, affordable and just plain work. If you want to pony up and get the best ones out there, go for the Firenocks, you can get those ordered custom to what you want them to do.

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I shoot a lot of 3D and switch arrows a lot, so I currently hunt with CE Maxima Reds that are .001 straightness because I have them leftover. Having said that there's really no reason to hunt with expensive shafts like those, the Bemans or Cabelas shafts that are .003 and inexpensive will fly exactly the same at hunting distances

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I shoot a lot of 3D and switch arrows a lot, so I currently hunt with CE Maxima Reds that are .001 straightness because I have them leftover. Having said that there's really no reason to hunt with expensive shafts like those, the Bemans or Cabelas shafts that are .003 and inexpensive will fly exactly the same at hunting distances

 

I've actually found that shooting 3D doesn't matter as much as I'm shooting field points.  if I shooting fixed blades I really like the straighter arrow.  if you've got an arrow saw often you can get a less straight arrow much straighter by cutting from and squaring both ends.  Deer are killed with cheap arrows every year.

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I've actually found that shooting 3D doesn't matter as much as I'm shooting field points. if I shooting fixed blades I really like the straighter arrow. if you've got an arrow saw often you can get a less straight arrow much straighter by cutting from and squaring both ends. Deer are killed with cheap arrows every year.

we are on the same page, in just saying .001 to .003 isn't ever going to show up in either situation so save the $
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