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DirtTime

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I agree it's the first shot that counts, no warm up ,no walking the arrows in, no " hey most of my shoots were good". Just one kill shot or bad shot .
Shoot  one when you first get up, another as you head to work, one when you get home and so on .
Unless you're new and building up muscles and consistent form .
Ive shot 6 arrow so far this year , I'll step,it up soon, but I'm 100% confidant right now .

That's another thread, I'll start it. Walk out to a random yardage, draw and shoot. I'll go do one now
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5 hours ago, Jeremy K said:

That the first thing I'm going to do . I read an article that Levi Morgan did on beating target panic. It sucks because I can shoot a bunch of arrows flawless and every once in awhile it sneaks up on me . 

I read one on him in field and stream when he used to shoot for elite. One exercise he said was to just draw, no arrow and focus on a dot and practice holding on target.  Other exercise was eyes closed shooting a Hay bale just focusing on releasing consistently every time. Great article.  I don't believe Levi uses back tension either if I recall correctly. 

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31 yards.  I am also shooting less.  Really trying to hold good form for that first shot.  This was about an inch higher than I wanted, I was going for more of a heart shot but was happy with it.  Not happy with my form as I pulled up slightly.  Shooting into the sun, cap was a must.  Put black tape over my fiber optics to lower the halo on the pins.  My first pin is 32-72 the first 2 cover most shots.  

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3 hours ago, moog5050 said:

Blew the dust off it and my first 5 arrows with the compound this year.  3 at 20 and 2 at 40.  Hitting a couple of inches low.  Not sure if it's my anchor or just need to adjust gang sight.

 

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Next time you shoot check your peep to sight up and down alignment, if it is good just adjust the sight.  Great groups! 

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That the first thing I'm going to do . I read an article that Levi Morgan did on beating target panic. It sucks because I can shoot a bunch of arrows flawless and every once in awhile it sneaks up on me . 
As soon as it does then stop. walk away. Many times the first arrows are crisp and then we start trying to stack them and think too much. That's when it happens.

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Ok, I'm in! First shot at 20 yds.  I'll admit I was aiming for the center dot, my bow is set up for broadheads. No matter what I do tuning it , I always shoot field points and broadheads differently? I know it's probably my form as I have had it tuned and papershot. I bet if I shot a broadheads it would be right on!

IMG_20170828_072347535.jpg

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Ok, I'm in! First shot at 20 yds.  I'll admit I was aiming for the center dot, my bow is set up for broadheads. No matter what I do tuning it , I always shoot field points and broadheads differently? I know it's probably my form as I have had it tuned and papershot. I bet if I shot a broadheads it would be right on!
IMG_20170828_072347535.jpg


Unless you have some other issue, bent broadhead, light spine, etc. a bow that is properly tuned will not shoot a field point different than a broadhead.


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22 hours ago, Buckmaster7600 said:

 


Unless you have some other issue, bent broadhead, light spine, etc. a bow that is properly tuned will not shoot a field point different than a broadhead.


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I know I go through this every year, bow is professionally tuned, walk back tuning, papershot, etc. I get sited in with field points and when I start shooting BHs they are always off. I end up adjusting sites for BHs and leave it alone. Till now when I'm shooting FPs again. It has to be my form cause this is the 3rd bow I've had the  same issues with. I also notice that my arrows seen to hit the targets canted to the right, I think it's not set up right but I take it to Roy at Nick's and he swears it's perfect? It's got to be me?

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I know I go through this every year, bow is professionally tuned, walk back tuning, papershot, etc. I get sited in with field points and when I start shooting BHs they are always off. I end up adjusting sites for BHs and leave it alone. Till now when I'm shooting FPs again. It has to be my form cause this is the 3rd bow I've had the  same issues with. I also notice that my arrows seen to hit the targets canted to the right, I think it's not set up right but I take it to Roy at Nick's and he swears it's perfect? It's got to be me?

You shooting a release?

When I was in the service I worked as the range safety officer on the base archery range and the amount of bows I saw that were "professionally tuned" that I had them shoot through a piece of paper and the bows weren't even close to being tuned.


Where do you live maybe I can help you?


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5 hours ago, 2012_taco said:

I know I go through this every year, bow is professionally tuned, walk back tuning, papershot, etc. I get sited in with field points and when I start shooting BHs they are always off. I end up adjusting sites for BHs and leave it alone. Till now when I'm shooting FPs again. It has to be my form cause this is the 3rd bow I've had the  same issues with. I also notice that my arrows seen to hit the targets canted to the right, I think it's not set up right but I take it to Roy at Nick's and he swears it's perfect? It's got to be me?

if you're grouping broadhead tipped arrows or hitting the same spot it's probably not really form.  some bows just tune quick and easy others seem to be finicky.  with FP and broadheads that far off means there's still much more accuracy, forgiveness, and performance left in the bow.

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15 minutes ago, dbHunterNY said:

if you're grouping broadhead tipped arrows or hitting the same spot it's probably not really form.  some bows just tune quick and easy others seem to be finicky.  with FP and broadheads that far off means there's still much more accuracy, forgiveness, and performance left in the bow.

My experience is that unless spine is really far off, most BH and FP disparities are cured by nock/rest height and rest centershot adjustments.  Yoke tuning may be required if you are really getting deep into tuning (and have yokes) but the aforementioned should get you really darn close.  Even if its is a form issue, if the form is consistent, the bow can be tuned to that person, but it does require the bow owner working with whomever is helping tune.  Just my experience.

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10 minutes ago, moog5050 said:

My experience is that unless spine is really far off, most BH and FP disparities are cured by nock/rest height and rest centershot adjustments.  Yoke tuning may be required if you are really getting deep into tuning (and have yokes) but the aforementioned should get you really darn close.  Even if its is a form issue, if the form is consistent, the bow can be tuned to that person, but it does require the bow owner working with whomever is helping tune.  Just my experience.

yea i agree.  i've had arrows that were borderline too weak drive tacks.  they didn't paper tune worth a damn because they were flexing so much.  unless i've got room to paper tune at different distances, i get it within an inch and just move to shooting outside to tune the rest of the way.  some bows i've dove into yoke, tiller, and cam rotation tuning until the end.  others i gave up and it just seemed like i was chasing my tail.  i think a bow tuned to a person is the optimum way.  we're all physically different when we shoot.  i'd rather people do the shooting portion of the tuning process then shooting it myself.  when i think of form i think of someone just doing what they're supposed to, not necessarily making them look like a carbon copy or formed to fit mold compared to the next guy/gal at full draw.

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6 minutes ago, sodfather said:

Next 3 with field points to piggyback on my bow doesn't shoot broadheads the same as field tip close but not exact. I was angled at a 45degree when shooting these 

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Good shooting.  Drop nock point (raising rest a touch would also likely work) and move CS slightly closer to riser.  Should sure the disparity - if you like tinkering that is.

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14 minutes ago, moog5050 said:

Good shooting.  Drop nock point (raising rest a touch would also likely work) and move CS slightly closer to riser.  Should sure the disparity - if you like tinkering that is.

Not much of a tuner I'll start with the rest Thanks Moog 

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