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Mower recommendations


moog5050
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1 hour ago, G-Man said:

A cub cadet lowboy with a 54 inch belly.mower.. will plow disk and plant as well as keep your lawn looking stylish

That looks pretty good if I can find one in good condition.  Its no really lawn I have to cut.  More along the lines of overgrown pastures.  But I will only be cutting outside of fences to road and then trails we use for hunting. 

Any thoughts on newholland?  They seem to be lower than most in price. 

Edited by moog5050
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18 hours ago, moog5050 said:

Thanks Philo and understood.  This property does require yard fine mowing.  Just keeping the natural grass and weeds down in certain areas.  Those are good examples from Airedale.

 

18 hours ago, philoshop said:

No offense Moog, but you're asking for two different things in one package. A nimble zero-turn mower will never be a food-plotting machine, and vice-versa. It comes down to a trade-off. It's not much different with guns. The perfect deer rifle is generally not very good for squirrel or rabbit hunting.

Airedale's options above are good ones, but you're going to have to do some push mowing to really clean up. And a zero-turn mower which is perfect for mowing is never going to pull ag equipment successfully. It is what it is.

i bought my house with 1 acre of yard and 2 acres of field.  i found a Kubota B7200D 4-wheel drive with a 48" belly mower for under $4k but it was a deal. it was very low hours despite being older with a smashed hood, so it was thought to be junk without it.  i bought an 8200 hood off a guy from an online ad. ground off and re-welded the hood to brackets to be positioned right to fit mine. i used it to clear and make the lawn 2 acres and then mow the tall grass a couple times a year in the acre of field that was left. then i used it to clear a couple food plots, skid some small logs, etc. i also have a 6' back blade to plow the driveway with it in the winter.  it forced me to get a zero turn for the actual clean yard mowing though. the ag tires were hard to the yard plus is was like turning an aircraft carrier. didn't mow as clean as obviously the zero turn in have now.  that's my insight. if you're not mowing a manicured lawn then go with a used compact utility tractor that's dependable. know that for that price you will need to fix something on it though to get a good deal.

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One thing to remember about a zero-turn mower is that the principle of steering relies on ground to tire slippage. That's what allows the zero turning radius. So you will find that any operation that requires traction will not work well with the zero-turn. They are designed to have controlled slippage. They are not a "pulling" implement.

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9 hours ago, moog5050 said:

That looks pretty good if I can find one in good condition.  Its no really lawn I have to cut.  More along the lines of overgrown pastures.  But I will only be cutting outside of fences to road and then trails we use for hunting. 

Any thoughts on newholland?  They seem to be lower than most in price. 

If your looking for new in all honesty kioti gives you most bang for the buck. Gpm on hydraulic pump,lift capacity on 3pt, and.lift capacity on loader. All things you want in a tractor for making plots and mowing. If your really just doing trails you may want to look into a flail mower vs a brush hog. Will do lawn and trails .I'mplemts can be found at agrisupply .com and everything implement.com.  if your going used I'd look for a cub cadet lowboy, or a famall 300 utility or a ford 8 or 9 n.. they are all low tractors that can move thru woods a d have enough horsepower to run 4 or 5 ft brush hogs or mowers no problem.. if your staying  on flat land you do not need 4wheel drive. The gearing and tire size will do all you need and save you thousands.

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7 hours ago, dbHunterNY said:

Here's mine with the belly mower off and plow on. I use the brush hog behind it for heavy stuff like young trees in say crp fields kind of heavy mowing.b0a54efd7c01a98268294369ec802174.jpg

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I have the same tractor with a blown clutch or shifting fork at present. I use a pallet jack with a 4x4 piece of plywood for retrieving deer and carring firewood out. Strap an old truck window gun rack to the roll bar and your all set bow or gun although I run all 4 tire chains and have another 150lbs on the front..my hill is steep..

Edited by G-Man
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I have the same tractor with a blown clutch or shifting fork at present. I use a pallet jack with a 4x4 piece of plywood for retrieving deer and carring firewood out. Strap an old truck window gun rack to the roll bar and your all set bow or gun although I run all 4 tire chains and have another 150lbs on the front..my hill is steep..
I've never gotten stuck unless in a muddy creek crossing with steep banks. I have some banks very steep that you have to back up to make it up. Its been pretty dependable. I work it hard but don't necessarily beat the hell out of it.

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1 hour ago, dbHunterNY said:

I've never gotten stuck unless in a muddy creek crossing with steep banks. I have some banks very steep that you have to back up to make it up. Its been pretty dependable. I work it hard but don't necessarily beat the hell out of it.

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Oh I've been stuck actually got 3 tractors stuck a d har yo ger bulldozer to get them out..

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On 6/21/2018 at 4:21 PM, Doc said:

There are still a lot of Ford 8N's around with a full line of tillage implements that will come in far less than $4000. Farmers used to run entire farms with these indestructible tractors. The 3-point hitch and PTO will power a bush-hog, do the plowing, disking, and dragging, and anything else you might have in mind for plotting.

what he said ^^^^^ There around and good little work horses.

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If you can find a 8/9n that isn’t too beat that would be my recommendation. That with a quality 3pt finish mower and you’d should be under your budget and have a heck of a good mower. Keep the blades sharp and a good 3pt finish mower will do a darn good job at mowing a lawn and be way faster than a lawn tractor and not too much slower than a zero turn. The key to finish mowers is not going to wide, I wouldn’t get over 5ft.


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On 6/21/2018 at 4:21 PM, Doc said:

There are still a lot of Ford 8N's around with a full line of tillage implements that will come in far less than $4000. Farmers used to run entire farms with these indestructible tractors. The 3-point hitch and PTO will power a bush-hog, do the plowing, disking, and dragging, and anything else you might have in mind for plotting.

Doing a motor on a 1949 front mount distributor 8N right now.  I use to do dozens of these a year before 0% for 84 months came along. I still own a 1942  2n with a magneto and 4- 8n to do motors in. 

Edited by landtracdeerhunter
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On 6/24/2018 at 11:02 AM, landtracdeerhunter said:

Doing a motor on a 1949 front mount distributor 8N right now.  I use to do dozens of these a year before 0% for 84 months came along. I still own a 1942  2n with a magneto and 4- 8n to do motors in. 

The first tractor I owned was a 1951 8N.  I bought it from the widow of the original owner in the late 80's.  It had 1200 hours on it and still had most of the factory paint.  I still have it and it remains my favorite make/model/year tractor of all time.  I would not recommend it for the primary task of mowing, because the Ford N-series do not have live hydraulics.  That means the hydraulics will not work when your foot is on the clutch.  That is a pain with a bush-hog, if you want to stop and chop up some big bushes, or raise it up when you get into some thick stuff.  It also lacks live pto, which is no big deal because a $50 overrunning coupler takes care of that handicap.  

The N's have some definite advantages though, with the biggest one being their durability.  Most of them are still in service even though the design is almost 80 years old.  No tractors have better parts availability.   These were the first production tractors with the three point hitch, and the one on them works better than most newer versions.  For Moog's rough mowing tasks, something a little newer like a Ford 600/800 series or 2000/3000 Ford could still come in under budget, have live hydraulics, and would get the mowing job done a lot easier.  I would be a little wary with the 1953 Ford Jubilee and the 54 600's though, as Ford's early attempt at "live" hydraulics were trouble-prone.  By 1955, they had the bugs worked out pretty good.              

 

 

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9 hours ago, wolc123 said:

The first tractor I owned was a 1951 8N.  I bought it from the widow of the original owner in the late 80's.  It had 1200 hours on it and still had most of the factory paint.  I still have it and it remains my favorite make/model/year tractor of all time.  I would not recommend it for the primary task of mowing, because the Ford N-series do not have live hydraulics.  That means the hydraulics will not work when your foot is on the clutch.  That is a pain with a bush-hog, if you want to stop and chop up some big bushes, or raise it up when you get into some thick stuff.  It also lacks live pto, which is no big deal because a $50 overrunning coupler takes care of that handicap.  

The N's have some definite advantages though, with the biggest one being their durability.  Most of them are still in service even though the design is almost 80 years old.  No tractors have better parts availability.   These were the first production tractors with the three point hitch, and the one on them works better than most newer versions.  For Moog's rough mowing tasks, something a little newer like a Ford 600/800 series or 2000/3000 Ford could still come in under budget, have live hydraulics, and would get the mowing job done a lot easier.  I would be a little wary with the 1953 Ford Jubilee and the 54 600's though, as Ford's early attempt at "live" hydraulics were trouble-prone.  By 1955, they had the bugs worked out pretty good.              

 

 

Simple solution for the live hydraulics part, limit chains. they clamp onto each lower link arm, then over top of the third top link where the big spring is located. lower your lift, adjust the chains to the height desired.  Used them for years and still do today for raking hay. 

The  N tractors also need an over running clutch on the PTO. when using a grass cutter or brush cutter. Rotation of the blades will continue the forward tractor motion, when foot clutch is engaged.

The way I see some of these people running a compact tractor, I am glad they don't own a  Ford N tractor, or they would be lying underneath it.

Edited by landtracdeerhunter
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11 hours ago, landtracdeerhunter said:

Simple solution for the live hydraulics part, limit chains. they clamp onto each lower link arm, then over top of the third top link where the big spring is located. lower your lift, adjust the chains to the height desired.  Used them for years and still do today for raking hay. 

 

 

 

That is more of a solution to the lack of "position" control on the 9N's (introduced in 1939) and 2N's (introduced in 1942).  In 1948, the  8N's brought us the "position" control in addition to the "draft" control, like the 9N's and 2N's had.  I like having both on my 1951 8N, but the only thing I use the "draft" control for is plowing.   Almost every other implement (certainly mowers of any kind) do a lot better with that little lever under the seat set "up" in "position" control.  With that selection, there is no need for them chains you need to use with a tractor that only has "draft" control.   Draft control can't be beat for a moldboard plow though, as it keeps the plow at uniform depth in the soil as the tractor passes over uneven terrain.   I did use the 8N on a bush-hog for a few years and got by ok with it, but "live" hydraulics sure makes that job easier.   

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On 6/22/2018 at 6:09 PM, Just Lucky said:

I have heard New Holland are work horses without comforts of others.

Weren't they Ford's?

They are Case's without the bells and whistles.  My brother has a couple.  One he loves, and the other he hates.  These are 100+ horse farm tractors.  I don't have much insight into the smaller ones.  For 40HP and below I am sold on Kubota.

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On 6/27/2018 at 6:21 PM, stubborn1VT said:

They are Case's without the bells and whistles.  My brother has a couple.  One he loves, and the other he hates.  These are 100+ horse farm tractors.  I don't have much insight into the smaller ones.  For 40HP and below I am sold on Kubota.

In 1977, it bought Hesston, a hay equipment company, and Fiat gained access to the U.S. market. Ford and Sperry New Holland merged in 1986, and that company was acquired by Fiat in 1991. That same year, Fiat sold Hesston to AGCO. In 1999, Fiat bought Case and the new agricultural division became CNH.

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And now a New Holland is a Case, without the bells and whistles.  I have run both.  I have also run tractors and equipment from every manufacturer you listed.  

14 minutes ago, Just Lucky said:

In 1977, it bought Hesston, a hay equipment company, and Fiat gained access to the U.S. market. Ford and Sperry New Holland merged in 1986, and that company was acquired by Fiat in 1991. That same year, Fiat sold Hesston to AGCO. In 1999, Fiat bought Case and the new agricultural division became CNH.

 

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