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Shooting Shed


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Has anyone ever built a heated shooting shed? I got this idea the other day when I was up on my archery range. I have a shooting bench back at 50 yards that I use for target shooting, and the same range is used for shooting the bow. The problem is that this time of year, it's too darn cold to be sitting out there bench rest shooting. So it occurred to me that if I built a shed over the shooting bench that I've got there and made it big enough to install a very small kerosene space heater, I could be shooting all year. Now I am thinking of going deluxe with a whole new shed from the ground up. Just a one-seater that will likely look like a small chicken coop with a shooting window and perhaps some side windows for summer ventilation. Just something to keep the weather off me, the guns, and all my equipment.

 

Has anyone ever built something like this? Any pictures? any ideas?

 

Here is where I would put it ..... right behind the house on the archery range. It would take the place of the bench under the blue tarp.

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My neighbors boy built their dad one after he fell out of  his tree stand and broke his hip.

 

It was about 10'x6'x6' and 3 feet off the ground.  It had a regular door and sliding windows and overlooked his food plot.  

 

He had a big stuffed chair, a heater and hot plate, both propane.

 

Oh, by the way,  he is 87.  Usually we came back to find him sleeping in his big stuffed chair, don't get that shooting shed too warm!!

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A friend actually did this for the rain and to keep sun off during a long summer range session. It worked very well. I imagine with the addition of a bit of insulation and a propane heater, it would be very winter usable. (I have a NG one and a bit bigger in my garage. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dyna-Glo-IR12PMDG-1-12-000-BTU-Propane-Infrared-Wall-Heater/46796370 )

 

His enclosure was built around the shooting table. Posts in the ground and right and left handed. Very stable and didn't have to worry about floor moving and wind vibrations. He started out with the table. Added posts and a roof and then built the floor and sides. Kind of backwards but the project kept evolving over about 4 years. 

Edited by Culvercreek hunt club
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I use my enclosed blind...I set up a target along the back side...rising hill behind the  blind.....I shoot from raised areas anyways so that is a perfect set up for me and the window ledge a good rest...for sighting in a scope it is the bench rest and table on the ground. I also belong to the local gun club and they have a covered shooting area.

Edited by growalot
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I have no problem with the construction, but I just don't want to get it all done and then find out that I had left some important or handy feature out.

 

It sounds like a real fun project, but I only want to do it once. There are some unique features that have to be put in, in order for it to be weather-tight and suitable for everything from 20 degrees in the winter to 90 degrees in the winter. That means super tight for winter, but able to open up to allow breezes in the heat of the summer.

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Stupid reminder : keep that bore outside the structure before pulling the trigger. Buddy shot a bunny from his bathroom window with a .17. Couldn't hear for days.

That is another concern that I was thinking about before. Thanks for reminding me.

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I have to confess my stand is heated I built it as most know on a hay wagon chassis and and put it together in the field (to tall to move on the road) its 8'x12' and I take my grand children hunting with me and they love it just cannot get them to stop calling it a tree fort LOL. but yes its heated and most of the time they set in it in only a light sweat shirt. It over looks 400 yd shots although between laughing, playing cards and and other games we have yet to shoot a deer at least when there with me, but we have a great time anyways!!

 

just for the record I have shot many deer from this stand just I have yet to shot one with my grand children there with me but I have the memories and I can shot deer almost any time.

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Looks to myself you have one direction that you will be shooting in.I suggest 2 windows 1 for your gun's double hung with rest and one casement stood uprite for shooting of your bow.As far as size I would say 8x8x not sure how tall you are or if you shoot your bow standing/sitting.A nice wall mount gas unit should do for the heat may also want a roof vent that is able to be opened 

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I have one heated structure we call the "Blood Shack" to hunt from.  It's only 4x4 but has enough room for deer hunting.

 

For a target shooting structure, I would want at least 6x6 (8x8 is preferred) and a 6' ceiling (for bow shooting you may need at least 8' of clearance to the roof).  You need more room when you are target shooting so you can fiddle with all of your shooting things.  You also need a roof that won't leak when snow melts or it rains.  A solid floor is also needed for a firm shooting platform.  You'll want a steady bench rest inside.

 

It should have windows on all four sides so you can see 360 degrees for safety.  These can be simple plexiglass, (harder to break) but they have to open.  You will also find when you open the window you shoot from in very cold weather, it gets cold in the structure very fast.

 

The summer is not too bad inside if all the windows are open and it's situated in the shade.

 

If built as described, it will suit your needs, keep you warm and last for a good while.

 

PS: You can also buy such a structure these days made of polymer plastic, or even wood, if you find you'd rather pay $800 for a ready made one.

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I am in the process of building a 8' x 8' raised blind. I am not skimping on the material so it is not cheap. Do yourself a favor and price a pre-made shed 6' x 6' or 8' x 8' shed. You would want a window on each side , as said above a double hung windows at least 3' high. The windows are not cheap unless you find somebody that is replacing the windows in there house.

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Curious as to how much elevation drop you have from bench to target ?  Enough to be concerned about ? 

 

I've never fully understood how much downhill/uphill effects trajectory

At 50 or 100 yards it is insignificant with a firearm. If you are shooting up or down at sharp angles ( say 45 degrees or more) and longish ranges, it might be worth considering.

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Curious as to how much elevation drop you have from bench to target ?  Enough to be concerned about ? 

 

I've never fully understood how much downhill/uphill effects trajectory

 

This  is a great ?I my self shoot sight my firearms off a bench on the flat not up hill/down.with the bow I shoot both ways from an elevated stand and also the ground With a gun never any issue but with the bow I find I need to use a second pin i have 2 one for flat and one for elevation not everyone shoots the same.Also after sighted in with a firearm I shoot offhand just to see how much that my movement is hard to tell how much a person is moving not only up/down/side/side when not shooting through a scope.

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I have no problem with the construction, but I just don't want to get it all done and then find out that I had left some important or handy feature out.

 

It sounds like a real fun project, but I only want to do it once. There are some unique features that have to be put in, in order for it to be weather-tight and suitable for everything from 20 degrees in the winter to 90 degrees in the winter. That means super tight for winter, but able to open up to allow breezes in the heat of the summer.

 

At your age Doc, I don't think you need to worry about it lasting too long.

 

HAHAHA. JK

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I was thinking the same thing, Skillet..Hell, I'm younger than Doc and I don't even buy green bananas anymore.

Heck I buy green Bananas so I don't have to go shopping twice a week.I prefer the riper ones so that I can turn them in to Bread sooner

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I have no problem with the construction, but I just don't want to get it all done and then find out that I had left some important or handy feature out.

 

It sounds like a real fun project, but I only want to do it once. There are some unique features that have to be put in, in order for it to be weather-tight and suitable for everything from 20 degrees in the winter to 90 degrees in the winter. That means super tight for winter, but able to open up to allow breezes in the heat of the summer.

 

Hinge the shooting opening door @ the top & put some rubber flashing on the hinge line to create a roof over the opening when it is propped open. That will allow you to shoot W/O "weather" interfering. You could put a small shed roof or an eave overhang over the opening for the same purpose.

 

When I was a senior in High school I happened upon a shooting shed. I asked the owner if I could use it & he graciously gave me permission. It had a target butt @ 100yd against a steep hillside. This was in PA in the late '60s when deer season was a local holiday. The Serro Scotty travel trailer factory where I worked at closed down for the 1st 2 days of the PA gun season & only did limited catch-up work on Wednesday-Friday.

 

Since you wont be shooting in high winds anyway, a single opening will still allow you to keep it tolerably warm inside W/a kerosene heater if the rest of the structure is weather-tight and you keep it small.

 

Edited by wildcat junkie
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At your age Doc, I don't think you need to worry about it lasting too long.

HAHAHA. JK

I bet I am at least 10 years older then Doc and Iintend on lasting longer, haha and I buy green bananas too. An old time builder mentioned to me when I built a shed over 10 years ago to staple Tar paper under the floor ,I did and no wood rot and dry on the inside, the floor is rough cut hemlock.

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk

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Curious as to how much elevation drop you have from bench to target ?  Enough to be concerned about ? 

 

I've never fully understood how much downhill/uphill effects trajectory

 

 

At 50 or 100 yards it is insignificant with a firearm. If you are shooting up or down at sharp angles ( say 45 degrees or more) and longish ranges, it might be worth considering.

When I lived in S Indiana I did a LOT of squirrel hunting W/scoped 22rf. I found that when sighted in @ 50yds on the flat/level. all I had to do to pop a squirrel's neck vertebrae  was to hold just under the back of the jaw. I practiced on black walnuts in my pasture. If you didn't hit them center they would fly off at an angle. If you centered the hard nut in the middle of the green husk, they disintegrated. I would settle the horizontal crosshair just under the bottom edge.

 

We're talking about > than 45* upward angle here. As much as 5* or so won't make a difference.

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I bet I am at least 10 years older then Doc and Iintend on lasting longer, haha and I buy green bananas too. An old time builder mentioned to me when I built a shed over 10 years ago to staple Tar paper under the floor ,I did and no wood rot and dry on the inside, the floor is rough cut hemlock.

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk

You must be older than DIRT...Doc was around when Moby Dick was a minnow.

If you look up the word OLD in the dictionary, they have Doc's PICTURE in there.

Edited by Pygmy
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