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Compound bow recommendations for a beginner


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Hey guys - I'm looking for some recommendations for decent compound bows under $500 (with accessories). I'm new to the bow hunting world but I'd like to try my hand at it either this season or the next. I've shot my friends bow a bit and it's pretty enjoyable just shooting at a target. Anyways, I've read some good reviews about the following bows:

- bear crux

- bow tech fuel

- Hoyt charger

- pse surge

- bear mauler

- diamond core

Any advice or reccomendations would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

-justin

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Go to an archery shop to let them figure your draw length. Tell them your price range and then actually shoot as many bows as you can. Let the bow pick you. You'll know when you have the right one. As

Since you're new, look for a bow with a brace height of 6 3/4" or greater. They will typically be more forgiving. Hate to say it, but if you have a Dicks, Gander, or Bass Pro near you hit one up. O

I just love my Mission Venture and they have come out with even more Fantastic bows.....   http://missionarchery.com/bows/

Go to an archery shop to let them figure your draw length. Tell them your price range and then actually shoot as many bows as you can. Let the bow pick you. You'll know when you have the right one. As said above, don't worry so much about brand, concentrate on fit and feel. A good pro shop will also help with arrow selection for the bow and accessories like type of release. A well established shop will have the expert advice to help you get going on your bow hunting journey. Good luck and check back to let us know how you made out.

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I would suggested looking into getting a used bow.  For that price range, you will be able to buy a much better quality bow if you find one that's a year or two old.  Find out your draw length and take a peek at the classifieds on ArcheryTalk.  You can get some really good deals there this time of year as people look to offload their older bows to pick up the latest models coming out this fall. 

 

Personally, I'm an Elite shooter.  You should be able to pick up a used '13 Elite Hunter for around that price, and if you do, you won't be disappointed.

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I'm not a beginner but the Hoyt charger is a hell of a bow for the money. Get to an archery shop and they will have you shoot Multiple bows in your price range. I'd suggest new for your first bow in order to get fitted and all set up.

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Hold them and if they allow you, shoot them. How the bow feels in your hand is very important and each individual is different. We get caught up in how great a bow someone else tells you it is but ultimately it is you who will be the one shooting it. I bought a cheaper now than my budget allowed because the one the more expensive one didn't feel as good and the ones that felt better was out of my budget.

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in 30 years of serious bow hunting i have only owned 2 bows both pse bows never had any thing go wrong with them if i were to get a new one the pse surge seems like a really good bow check out the reviews on u tube

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The used bow advice may work out ok but the bow must fit you properly. No one can tell you your draw length by measuring your wingspan, in case some one tries that..

You'll have to know whether you're gonna shoot fingers or release n which type. Your DL wil be different with all, even as you simply change releases.

You also need to know dominant eye to shoot proper "hand".

The bow should not be super performance, they're best for experienced shooters

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$500 fully equipped puts you in the used market. I don't think you can go wrong with really any modern compound, so make sure you get your measurements and check the local shops for trade ins. eBay is actually a decent source too.

I will always recommend Matthews because their single cam design is simple and requires little tuning. They are more expensive but even a switchback from 10 years ago is a solid bow.

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Go to archery shops and try as many as you can , when you find one that is comfortable to shoot you will know it. Brand name does not matter now days , too many good ones out there. And do not get caught up on the power hipe , you only need a 40 pound draw weight bow to down a deer.Speed is also not that imporntant  , if you get a bow that fits you should go to a pro shop also to match the arrow spline ect. + broadhead weigh for the set up.

And practice,practice.Start with a few arrows a day and work your way up.You do not want to pull something out of wack before archery season.

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Everyone already dais the same things I would say.

I will add this though, as a first bow get something with a lot of adjust ability you can do at home.

One I shot recently was a Diamond Infinite Edge. For me it felt good in my hand and was quiet and smooth. The backwall was just a little soft, but that didn't hurt the accuracy or holding the draw. For the price this is a good beginner bow if feels good when you shoot it.

 

Good luck and whatever you buy enjoy it!

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Lots of good advice above. Used is a big savings as there is no shortage of guys who want the latest greatest bow , as they think it matters. Same advise for cars and Rolex's . Let them take the hit for you.

Don't over think this any modern bow will be fine. I've been bow hunting since '88 killed a buck my first year and most since.

I have owned two bows. A Golden Eagle something for 18 years and Hoyt's cheaper brand since , Reflex I think. Don't ask me my draw length , what release ,sites , arrows , rest I use I have no idea right now.

Had it set up then just shot it , I don't mess with it or experiment much or really at all.

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Go to multiple dealers and shoot different models.....when you find something you like search eBay and archery talk like crazy.....you will find smokin deals on both sights.

Once you get the bow take it to a local shop to setup and through them some business and buy a 1/2 dozen new arrows.

I also recommend buying all accessories online as well....if you know what you want you will find sights,rests, and quivers way cheaper then in a pro shop.

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Thanks for all of the good info guys, appreciate it.I think I'm going to buy new instead of used only because I need to buy a left handed bow, I'm left eye dominant and I shoot right handed. As much as I'd prefer to shoot right handed and just close one eye, I think it's best if I just man up and learn to shoot lefty so I can have both eyes open. I'm pretty close to purchasing the Bear Cruzer. 

Again, thanks for all the help. 

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The used bow advice may work out ok but the bow must fit you properly. No one can tell you your draw length by measuring your wingspan, in case some one tries that..

You'll have to know whether you're gonna shoot fingers or release n which type. Your DL wil be different with all, even as you simply change releases.

You also need to know dominant eye to shoot proper "hand".

The bow should not be super performance, they're best for experienced shooters

 

I've measured many people's wing span for draw length and got right on the money.  Most of the time you go to a shop and they measure you or look at you (height), make an experienced guess, and then see if it's right.  Just starting he'll be better off seeing results using mechanical index finger triggered release aid.  cheap hand held releases suck and better ones are about half his current budget.  I agree though you need to know what release and don't go for the fastest (least forgiving) bow out there, but he's not in that price range anyway.

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$500 fully equipped puts you in the used market. I don't think you can go wrong with really any modern compound, so make sure you get your measurements and check the local shops for trade ins. eBay is actually a decent source too.

I will always recommend Matthews because their single cam design is simple and requires little tuning. They are more expensive but even a switchback from 10 years ago is a solid bow.

 

a lot of great bows in the 330fps IBO range for $400-450.

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I've measured many people's wing span for draw length and got right on the money. Most of the time you go to a shop and they measure you or look at you (height), make an experienced guess, and then see if it's right. Just starting he'll be better off seeing results using mechanical index finger triggered release aid. cheap hand held releases suck and better ones are about half his current budget. I agree though you need to know what release and don't go for the fastest (least forgiving) bow out there, but he's not in that price range anyway.

Not saying the wingspan thing can't be on the money but it's impossible to be exact everytime. Release lengths vary n people need to be measured holding a bow n their chosen release method.
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Not saying the wingspan thing can't be on the money but it's impossible to be exact everytime. Release lengths vary n people need to be measured holding a bow n their chosen release method.

 

in my experience you're better off maintaining the same draw length.  you adjust the D-loop and or release aid to make the proper fit for your specific anchor points (aside from corner of mouth and nose.  even the cheap cheapest index finger releases can and should be adjusted.  they're taken apart to an extent and the threaded rod making up the barrel of the release can be cut away little by little until it's the proper length so you're not reaching with your finger, regardless of the draw length.  just what I've found.

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Since you're new, look for a bow with a brace height of 6 3/4" or greater. They will typically be more forgiving. Hate to say it, but if you have a Dicks, Gander, or Bass Pro near you hit one up. Only reason I say this is because they typically carry several different brands of bows for you to shoot. I would advise not purchasing one there as most of the guys in their pro shops are hacks. If you have an archery pro shop nearby stop and see what they have. Archery talk is a great place to buy a bow if you're experienced. Don't rush into a purchase. Like everyone else has said, you need to shoot bows, several bows, and you'll know when you find the right one.

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in my experience you're better off maintaining the same draw length. you adjust the D-loop and or release aid to make the proper fit for your specific anchor points (aside from corner of mouth and nose. even the cheap cheapest index finger releases can and should be adjusted. they're taken apart to an extent and the threaded rod making up the barrel of the release can be cut away little by little until it's the proper length so you're not reaching with your finger, regardless of the draw length. just what I've found.

Bud I teach archery n am full aware some releases are adjustable., some are not or have limited adjustability. In order to achieve a proper release, the bow must fit you perfectly. Many guys get by w an improperly fit bow but they have tons of problems.

No reason to guess a measurement or make do when they sell bows for the exact same price that fit the archer

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I know this will drive hard core archery guys crazy. That said...I shoot rt handed but am left eye dominate...it's because I just Can not hold a left handed bow and draw, period...If you have to train yourself then I say go cheap or barrow to start...get fitted but be prepared for it perhaps not working. I shoot both eyes open ...just instinctive...but they do have rifle type sights for ppl like us and they are great.

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