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These four bucks are mounted on Ohio Taxidermy Supply forms, been using them more and more and they look tremendous when finished. The are bulkier in the face and neck and fit our deer and Midwestern and NY, Pa, deer a lot better then Mckenzie form, IMO.

Checked out the cam today and saw these pics

So I went for a nice afternoon goose hunt by myself yesterday and this is what I have to deal with...https://vimeo.com/105766291

Below are pictures of a first year fall food plot that we finished in August. This area was once a heavily overgrown scrub apple orchard with Honeysuckle so thick you couldn't walk through it at all. We cleared the entire orchard, plowed, disc'd and planted this year. This area has many positive factors. It is on the top of a hill with large AG fields off to one side and a deep ravine with a bedding area at the bottom, on the other side. The plot has numerous heavy producing apple trees, a number of red and white oaks along the perimeter and the plot we put down this year consists of Rye, Brassica and Clover. With the main wind, this plot is very huntable and we have already set out stands. I predict the deer will use this in the early season and rut as a staging plot before heading into the AG fields and as a main feed plot once winter settles in. Here are some pics starting with the plowed area to the most recent pic including 15 days of growth.

Never forget the lost lives taken from us on this day! I will never forget the attack on NY and the innocent lives taken by extremist. The brave people of flight 93 that crashed into Pennsylvania. And the victims in Washington. The bravest of firefighters who gave their lives to try and save others. The hero's who did not allow a plane to be used as a weapon and fought back on flight 93. No I will never forget! God Bless America!

Here's my daughters 2013 xbow buck, she has been helping me on and off for the last month or so, she tucked one eye, (I did the 1st one to show her) built up the nose, and did a good amount of the airbrushing. Happy Dad!

http://urbandeercomplex.com/news/if-you-are-against-hunting-you-are-against-conservation/

Fixed it for you

I have one more lane where I can shoot a bit south east . I chopped the tops of the weeds there as I didn't want to make a path to the stand . Now , I just hope it works out . It would probably be a better Gun stand because when some shooting starts the deer sometimes use the horse trail to escape from one property to another . It would have been nice to have had access to a brush hog instead of doing it by a Grunt .......... !

Hate to bring up such an old thread but I think I can shed some light on this discussion. Recently found this forum and was looking through all the old threads. I shot what I believe is the question buck in November 2011. Unfortunately while he was running away he busted his main beam, the broken piece was never found after lots of searching. But the deer was fairly symmetrical and the broken side was the larger one so I figure I can give a "halfway decent" guess on his score by doubling the smaller side and estimating width. Im at work now but tomorrow I will post his measurements and a couple pictures.

AaronBlaine, Taxidermist will prefer to get the entire bear. You can skin it before hand, but you better make sure you skin it the way the taxidermist wants it done. Easier and simpler to just let him do it. Bowtech2, When do you plan on picking up your father from the taxidermist? Will the bear be done around the same time? : )

A guy my Dad knows got this one near Ellenville.

Is that considered baiting because of the salt content?

Part 1 So you are thinking about Reloading Reloading has been a fun pastime for me for several years now. I got into reloading because I didn't like the way certain factory ammo companies load and test their cartridges, and reloading is still cheaper to do than buying factory ammo. Reloading is also very precise, and when done correctly, a rewarding hobby for someone who enjoys an accurate firearm. This is not a hobby someone with no knowledge of precision instruments is going to jump into; you have to have some back ground with instrumentation. Being able to read a Vernier Caliper and/or a micrometer is necessary in order to get precise measurements and accurate loads. This can also be a very dangerous hobby if not done correctly. Being distracted is one way to lose track of how much powder you put in a shell case, which can blow up in the gun when fired injuring not only you but bystanders as well. First things first, what tools will you need to get started 1) A place to work (undisturbed) and a sturdy, well secured bench. 2) Good press. A used press in good shape is fine. 3) Set of dies and case holders for the calibers you are reloading 4) Reloading manuals 5) Case trimmer and collets to fit the necks of the cases you are reloading and a Vernier caliper. 6) Deburing / chamfering tool 7) Good set of scales and scale weights, quality is more important than gadgetry.(I don't use electronic scales but you can) 8)Powder measure and trickier 9) Case lube and lube tray 10) A stuck or broken case remover 11) Case tumbler 12) Handheld priming tool 13) Depending on the State you live in, a powder storage container may be required. Ok that is the list, so lets tackle them one at a time: 1) A Place to Work (Undisturbed) and a Sturdy, Well Secured Bench: The place you work needs to be a place where you can shut out all outside interference nothing should distract you from what you are doing. A mistake here can cost you your life or someone else's, it's that simple. This place should also be dry. Put a de-humidifier in the work area to be on the safe side. The bench needs to be sturdy and level. There are many places online that offer reloading benches, but mine is built from scratch. That way, I can build into it what I want. The operation of the press(s) puts a lot of pressure on the bench, and the up and down motions will shift a poorly-secured bench and make it not level. I constructed my bench with a 2x4 frame deck screwed to the wall with 4" screws. The top is one layer of 5/4 boards screwed to the frame every 6", with 2" deck screws and then a piece of good one-side plywood glued and screwed to the 5/4 boards. The legs are 5/4 X 6" boards deck screwed to the floor with a center brace screwed to the wall and floor. It does not move when acted upon by the presses. The location in which you set up your reloading equipment is also important. Once a process is started it should be run to it's completion without distraction, so locate your bench and supplies in a remote area of your home, or an out building. No phone or television! 2) A Good Press: The manufacturers of the tools used in reloading are all very good with respect to quality. The choice of whose name is on your gear is up to you. Some people have multistage units for faster reloads; I don't go agree with faster myself, but to each his own. Quality presses and die sets are a must! These do not have to be new; a used press that doesn't have a lot of side to side motion when the ram is raised and lowered, and that doesn't have worn out pins, can do the job just fine. I use 2 different types of presses and they are both were both used when I obtained them. The first is an RCBS Single Stage press that I use to size and decap my cases, and the other is a LEE 3 Stage press that I use for pressing the bullet into place. The reason for the LEE 3 Stage is that I reload different calibers; I can set up the bullet seating dies for each caliber, and just rotate the turret to the proper die without have to reinstall another one. 3) Set of Dies and Case Holders for the Calibers You are Reloading: As all of the die sets manufactured are of the same thread, any will work in your press. Again, quality is of the same importance throughout. Hornady New Dimension Dies just seem to work better, in my opinion. As with the presses, it is not necessary for you to buy new. A well cared for used set will work very well. Shell holders are different for some calibers, so you will need to have the proper ones for the calibers you are reloading. 4) Reloading Manuals: It cannot be stressed enough how important these are in reloading. Manuals will give you more insight into what you need to know than any other source. When starting out. read every handbook you can get your hands on. Some of them even have some great stories in them about hunts or target matches. Follow their recommendations for loads to the letter. A friend said once, "Always know exactly what the answer is." What he meant by that was, if you had a question in your mind about any part of the process, it should be answered before continuing to load. It is never safe in this hobby to guess. Know exactly what you are doing and how you are doing it. 5&6) Case Trimmer and Deburing Tool: The case trimmer is necessary because after firing and resizing a case, it tends to stretch and needs to be shortened so it will not bind in the chamber when loaded. There are also the electric powered trimmers. What you pick is up to you. The deburing tool is for cleaning off bits of the case after trimming, and for making the placement ofthe bullet into the case easier. 7) Scales and Weights: Scales are one tool that needs to be set and rechecked often. The ability to get the same amount of powder in each case depends upon a good scale. I recommend getting a set of weights first. Then go to your retailer to buy a set of scales. Zero the scale out, and place the weights one at a time to check the accuracy. Buy the most accurate scale available; often this does not mean electronic or most expensive. 8)Powder Measure and Trickier: These items are a must have, both are indispensable. A good powder dump can save a lot of time trying to weigh out loads by hand. Powder Measures may not always dump the same amount of powder, but they are very close. After the powder is dumped into your scale pan, use the trickier to add it in minute amounts until the desired weight is reached for each case. 9) Case Lube and Lube Tray: The case lube and lube tray are where I differ from some folks. I don't use a tray to lube my cases; I prefer to hand lube each case. I not only save money this way, but lube also. 10,11,12) Stuck or Broken Case Remover, Case Tumbler, and Handheld Priming Tool: These items are something people recommend, and are items that can also be purchased new or used as they are helpful and not a necessity. A broken case remover is handy However if you lube the case you should not need one. The case tumbler is also a tool some say is necessary and some say not. There are two sides to every road and this is not exception. Tumbling cases is said to be good for cleaning them however; some people say that tumbling cases causes deformities when they run into each other. I have a case tumbler that I built, and have seen no imperfections caused by this process. The hand held priming tool is not necessary, due to the fact that most presses have priming mechanisms built in. I prefer a handheld tool because I can feel when the primer is seated more easily than I can with the long handle of the press. 13) Powder Storage Container: This item is totally up to you and your state requirements. Check with your state police or local authorities for any laws regarding this item. Some states are very strict on how much powder you may store and the manner in which you store it. So, in conclusion, run out with your list and get all the items listed here! Again, all the items are available on the Internet; check there for prices and then look local to see if you can get a better deal. This will be a 2-part segment. If you are interested, in the interim, read everything you can about reloading and we will get together to talk about what you have learned. If you have any questions about this article, E-mail me. I will reply as soon as possible..Big John

If you bring a standard hunting rifle, wooden unadjustable stock, no pistol grip, nothing plasticor scary that makes it look like a military weapon you "should" be OK. DON'T Bring a handgun or a rifle that scares democrats, that could land you in prison.

That doesn't sound like he wheezed but actually blew meaning alarm. It's a short burst of air that's loud. If that's the case you're done. He knows you're there. I've made the sound back, circled downwind, walking slowly, and stomping with each step. Sometimes they come a little closer and hang around for another second. If you don't have a shot to begin with it doesn't do much good. It's better than nothing though. If they do something you do same. They almost get confused for a second because you're acting like they scared you. Works much better with a gun early on. It's tough with a bow as they're firing on all cylinders right then and can easily turn and burn as you release an arrow. If the buck was snort wheezing then snort wheeze back following by a aggressive drawn out grunt. But stop at an point if he acts like he heard you. If he's looking your way and then moves on like he's not really spooked then bleat at him once he starts walking.

I have the stack-on 12 gun safe and I love it but sizes given are inflated by at least a third. Strong and able to be bolted down to floor or back against wall.

nothing more than a criminal......may have been slightly interesting if he actually lived off the land by trapping, hunting and fishing, violating people by breaking into their homes and stealing their property is far from impressive.

If he asked some of those people he stole from would have let him house sit and maybe paid him. As for what made him like this I would guess he was married,lol.

looks good

SWEET!

Wow sounds like an awesome spot, oaks next to apple trees with a food plot! Sounds like heaven to me! I am sure the deer think so.

this will pay off!!!!

Nice job , hard work at its finest.

Small update w/pics. It seems to be filling in real good... Wonder if I should drop some fert during bow season? Never really did brassicas and they seem to be coming in really good no? Field 1: Field 2:

PART 2 So you are thinking about Reloading Okay, so you have gone out and made the necessary purchases. You are looking at all your new stuff and asking yourself, "Now what?" Now what is that you get those reloading manuals out and you read them; and I mean every page! The Manuals are the bibles of reloading,. They will keep you from making mistakes which could seriously injure, or even kill you or someone else. I am not going to go through all the little nuances of reloading in these articles, as it would take forever to do so. I will show you where to go and the best way to get there though; the rest is up to you. After reading your manual(s), get yourself a place to build or set up your bench. Remember, this is your place; no one should be running in, no radio, no TV, nothing distracting you period. Distractions are dangerous! Now that you found that perfect place, and you have your bench in kit form or the materials to build it, securing it to the walls and floor is important, as you are going to be putting a lot of pressure on the bench when resizing your brass. Your top must also be strong. The bench I built has a 2X4 base secured to the wall and floor, with 5/4 boards and plywood top. Yes, it is too sturdy; I like it that way. Now how you setup your bench is as personal as the clothes you wear; the only thing I would suggest is that you put everything in the order of operation. You don't want to have to move around a section of the bench to get to another operation. By this, I mean you don't want to go around the press to get to powder scales, etc... When working up a load for your weapon of choice, I recommend you start with the lowest amount of powder and slowly go up from there. I use case boxes and mark the loads with different color markers on the primer ends. I always shoot five shot groups, so I load the five rounds for each weight of powder, I shoot them at the range to see how they group. The manuals will have what they consider the "maximum load". That term is both good and bad. Do not assume that your gun will hold the max load; their maximum load could be too much for your particular weapon, and blow it up in your face. Even a brand new gun could be damaged by too much powder, so start low and check for signs of extreme pressure (ie, bolt stuck when trying to eject the spent round, one sign that there is too much pressure/powder in the loads). Remember the fastest bullet may not be the most accurate. Part of reloading is being meticulous about doing the same thing, the same way, every time. This makes for good accuracy, and accuracy is why you or I reload. Anyone can go to the local department store, buy a box of shells and shoot them. Now to put 5 bullets in the bulls eye at 100yds, or shoot a l/2in. group at the same distance that takes meticulously-hand loaded ammunition. I probably should have mentioned it before this but, Do Not Assume Anything! If at any time you are unsure of what you have done, or are about to do, Stop and Start Over! It is better to have wasted some time than to get hurt because you didn't know what was going on. When I got into this hobby, I asked an old friend of mine named Leo, "Should I full-length size or just neck size my cases?", in reference to my 22-250. I had some cases that were shot from another gun. Anyway, I said I didn't know, and he stopped me right there. "Full length size all the cases because you don't know. Always know!" I have never forgotten what he said. Therefore, if there was a number one rule, it would be "Always know!" Well I guess you are on your way up the reloading road. Remember read the manual (s). They are your best source of information. As always, if you have a question I can help you with, please contact me at my E-mail address. Be Safe. Big John

I know you're concern with time is a factor so hopefully you find them easy but............... I bought marine line at a boat store more than a few years ago and made my own. Easy as pie.......33' is IIRC what you want. A couple wraps up high and enough to tie around the base of the tree once at about mid chest in hight. The prussic is easy to, I got that line at EMS IIRC. Note: the 33' length works out great for a 100' chunk of line.

Go for it! There is a lot of interest in the subject here, and we all can benefit from periodic refreshers and some new opinions.

Next time, consider bringing some roundup. Cut the paths you definitely need and spray the paths. Then, spray some lighter walking paths through the thick stuff. After the die-off the dead vegetation will start to lay down naturally as the wind batters it. Slower process, but much less work-intensive and you can still be precise.

Hey guys, not sure if this is ok to put here and if it isn't just let me know. My name is Adam and I run a group called Adirondack Bowhunters. We self-film our hunts from all over NYS, with the main focus being bowhunting but we also show rifle/shotgun hunting as well. Besides hunting videos, we also do reviews and tips. Since this is a NYS forum I am hoping some of you will enjoy what we do at ADKBH. I'll post links to our Facebook, Website and Youtube Channel. This will be our first season releasing whitetail hunting videos but we do have some good turkey hunting episodes from this spring to give you guys an idea of what we do. BTW: You won't see us pushing sponsors outright. Our direction is a little different than most. Hope you enjoy. http://www.facebook.com/adirondackbowhunters http://www.adirondackbh.com

I don't really get too excited about others getting involved in food plotting, unless their aim is to pull deer off a neighbor's property. No, legally there's nothing wrong with that idea, but there feels like something very wrong with one hunter trying to do that to another hunter. I have not encountered that situation where I am, but just like the potential of baiting wars, I can see food plot wars ..... lol. Those things are not attitudes that I like to see flourishing in hunting. It has led to a term that came to me called "deer hoarding". Sure the aggrieved neighbor can always retaliate with a super-food plot of his own. Is that kind of neighborly competition really a good thing? I suppose it's great for the deer ..... lol.

I always pay 50% up front and 50% upon completion. Cash always help on the price Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Collect calls bring back a lot of memories of nights I don't remember all that well.

Doc --- I went back today to pretty much finish up so I can stay away for 3 weeks . Cleared out some more area . The brown circle is the camera 13 yards away . The green blob is 16 yards and the red blob is 21 yards . I chopped the tops off some of the weeds after taking the picture to make a larger shooting area .

The law would have made any firearm "transfer" without an FFL and a NICS check a felony. Giving your gun to anyone else would've been considered a "transfer" not matter what the situation involved. Give it time. It will become law sooner or later. The anti's never give up on any gun law.

I whole heartedly agree... I only chose to make the point because it is one of the things that has turned me off about the QDM movement.. I don't like the emphasis being put on food plotting for attracting and holding whitetails on a property... I too like to distance myself from the concept of livestock manipulation... it just seems unnatural from a hunting standpoint... even though I know it can be beneficial in some habitats

A lean mast crop makes for better hunting.

Im gonna have to start working on this sooner than i thought hahaha

I want out Saturday near port jervis. saw a sow with two cubs. let them walk. also saw a ton or deer and a few nice bucks...i'll be out again saturday maybe a boar or sow without cubs will walk by

I would contend that very few food plots are created with habitat improvement as the main motive for planting... unless done by a conservation organization or the state... the peaked interest in food plotting was started by hunters looking to attract animals and hold them on the property with the intention of hunting near or over those food plot areas... in most habitats.. enhancement or replanting of already present food sources would serve the deer populations just as well as introducing acres and acres of crop type foods known to attract and hold deer. I don't think anyone can deny that food plotting is beneficial to deer... but it would not exist at it's current level unless it served deer hunters... we need to start calling things what they are and stop hiding from the truth about why food plotting has become so popular... like you, I don't think I would go as far as to say it is the same as baiting.

Glad to hear you've been doing well, Joe! Great pics

45-70 5 shot revolver.. or go with my favorite an in line 50 cal muzzleloading pistol. (cva makes a great one)

in that situation, chances are next to nothing that you ccould have stopped him with a call, drew and shot.also that deer would likely be "on alert", may jump string with a bow shot. I've heard that when deer blow at you but don't see you, you can blow back at them and possibly get them to come your way for a shot. Peter Fidducia mentions it in one of his videos. I've yet to try it. Anyway,I Would rather have the rifle in that situation.

If you read the NYON article, it's mainly retailers complaining about not being able to sell the 200+# Xbows they took from their suppliers. Pretty sure Biz is right, new Xbow regs simply carried over some of older ones which were originally used to describe the length, width, draw wgt of a Xbow as a legal implements in NYS. BTW - A Xbow's 3X the draw weight (~180# vs 60#) of a compound does NOT equate to proportional increases in fps. My 10pt is 180# and shoots somewhere in the range of 330fps with ~100Ke. Much better performance than compounds of the 1990's era, but pretty similiar fps/Ke as most compound models on the current market.

He didn't. He broke into homes and cabins when he was sure nobody was home. Besides he never, ever had a weapon, apparently. After almost 30 years of living outdoors, I guess I'd consider him an outdoorsman in a way. Heck he was only doing what a lot of bears do! LOL!

I heard he had a laptop with a big sticker across it that said "Papist",lol Even if he killed all his own food, and made his own clothes from the critters, and never broke into a single home, folks would be screaming that he "stole it" all from society. A poor guy can't even run away from home anymore. He does look pretty healthy under the circumstances.

I'm guessing the second scenario is closest to the reason for his life away from MOST of society. Sad story but interesting nonetheless.

Was this guy enjoying his love of outdoors or was he an anti-social mental deficient that simply snapped one day. I think there is a real sad story here of a very unfortunate individual. It is too bad that no one took a look at his pre-hermit life events to learn more about what makes this guy the social misfit that he obviously turned out to be.

Great read. Amazing in all those years he never built a fire and slept in a basic tent, Looks like he'll have some time behind bars to write a book on survival

He must be a slow learner then, because I've been running into these two all summer,lol How in the world did anyone ever scout before trail cams? I got rid of all my cams this year, so this is how I'm gonna get it done. I'm sure I haven't seen the last of either of them this year, and I'm sure not too worried about that stand being ruined by an end of August encounter. Here's another shot of his buddy the professor 9pt too.. you would think he'd be smarter than that by now.