walk behind tiller

[Doewhacker]

19 minutes ago, moog5050 said:

Those aint cheap.  Used still looking at 600-800.

The older ones I know were built to last, my dad had one that saw lots of use for 35 years. His was an econo horse I think. The motor finally went and he was unable to repair it or replace it because of the odd set up so he bought a Cub Cadet. 

The Cub seems wimpier but still gets the job done. 

[helmut in the bush]

1 hour ago, moog5050 said:

will probably use that method this year.  cut, spray and then seed, but I am curious about tilling with one of these.

You need to spray first, let it die, spread the seed, drive through it with a 4x4 to make the seed make contact with the ground, then mow it. The thatch from mowing provides mulch which will keep the moist with the morning dew, and keep it warm. This also starts the process of building organic matter. I think Buckwheat would be a good start now. Then winter rye in the late summer, or whatever

[moog5050]

7 minutes ago, helmut in the bush said:

You need to spray first, let it die, spread the seed, drive through it with a 4x4 to make the seed make contact with the ground, then mow it. The thatch from mowing provides mulch which will keep the moist with the morning dew, and keep it warm. This also starts the process of building organic matter. I think Buckwheat would be a good start now. Then winter rye in the late summer, or whatever

I read cut, let is start to grow back and then spray and then plant.  Looking to do brassicas seeding first week of august

[helmut in the bush]

10 minutes ago, moog5050 said:

I read cut, let is start to grow back and then spray and then plant.  Looking to do brassicas seeding first week of august

Check this out, if you look close you might even see a 170 out in the plots.

 

http://www.habitat-talk.com/index.php?threads/the-throw-n’-mow-method.5510/

 

Look at whats said about the Buckwheat

[stubborn1VT]

I have done plots up to 1/3rd acre with a Cub Cadet walk-behind.  It's work.  They do a decent enough job in the woods, but can be a PITA in heavy sod or on wet ground. 

My buddy did 1.5 acres with a borrowed tiller the last 2 years.  He beat the snot out that poor machine.  He shot a real nice 10 point off the edge of one of his plots last bow season.  This year he cut access trails so he could use a tractor.

Last year I did a chicory and clover plot with a leaf rake, blue tarp, a lighter, and a bag spreader.  

This year I am going to try to plant a strip in the woods by dragging the big debris off with my tractor and box scraper.  I will put the teeth down on the box scraper and get rid of the bigger sticks and rotten wood.  Then I will go over it with the 4 wheeler and chain harrow.  Seed it, roll it, and wait for rain.  At least that's the theory...  

[WNYBuckHunter]

The first few years I experimented with food plots, I planted small ones that I tilled up with a 1960s Airens rototiller. It worked just fine. I still use that damn thing for putting in flower beds, etc. In fact, heres a pic I took last night after I got done working on a flower garden Im putting in. Tiller is in the pic. Saturday was the first time Ive started it in 4 years. Last time it got used, a half a tank of gas was left in it. I cleaned the spark plug and it fired up on the 2nd pull. This tiller spent over 3 decades sitting outside, uncovered before I cleaned up the carb, put new belts on it and started using it again. It wont die.

 

BTW, I dont plant my brassicas till mid to late august

 

[Buckmaster7600]

It will work but my suggestion is to look for an old wheel horse or the like. The new ones are junk comparatively.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[moog5050]

13 minutes ago, Buckmaster7600 said:

It will work but my suggestion is to look for an old wheel horse or the like. The new ones are junk comparatively.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Like this?

[Buckmaster7600]

Like this?

Exactly, we have one a little bigger than that it was made in 71’ put a new motor on it a few years ago but the drivetrain is indestructible. Not sure about that one but mine is direct drive to the tiller so no worries of a belt slipping.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[b3h]

Exactly, we have one a little bigger than that it was made in 71’ put a new motor on it a few years ago but the drivetrain is indestructible. Not sure about that one but mine is direct drive to the tiller so no worries of a belt slipping.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's it. If it runs good buy it. Do an acre and u will kno it. Be prepared when that thing hits a big gooney or tree root


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mowin]

That's a good buy.  

[moog5050]

1 hour ago, mowin said:

That's a good buy.  

Guess so. It sold already.  I will keep an eye out

[mowin]

34 minutes ago, moog5050 said:

Guess so. It sold already.  I will keep an eye out

If that was near me, I would have snached it up and re-sold  it for 600

[moog5050]

14 minutes ago, mowin said:

If that was near me, I would have snached it up and re-sold  it for 600

Perfect then I could have bought it from you.  Lol

[mowin]

1 hour ago, moog5050 said:

Perfect then I could have bought it from you.  Lol

Sold.  Lol.. 

[Steve D]

7 hours ago, moog5050 said:

Is in unrealistic to plan an acre of tilling with one of these?

Regardless of the type of tiller; what will dictate your success is the ground you are tilling.  Tillers as a rule are not fun and if the ground is rough, rocky, lots of roots, or clay that acre will seem like a hundred before you are done.

[Zag]

7 hours ago, moog5050 said:

Is in unrealistic to plan an acre of tilling with one of these?

It can be done but it's kinda time consuming, I did what your thinking a few times with a food plot blend of corn, sunflowers, sorghum's. I filled it up, spread the seed then tilled again. Then I drove my tractor over it 100 times to get it level and packed. Each time it worked great. Good luck

[nyslowhand]

Moog, assuming you've never used a tiller before...?

Tillers are made to turn over ground that has already been cultivated in previous years. Tillers don't replace plows! Using a walk-behind tiller on virgin ground, areas with plenty of rocks or tree roots - well, it's a "work out" to say the least and you won't get the results you expected. JMO, I'd  be looking to hire someone with a small tractor with a 3pt tiller, bobcat w/tiller attachment or an ATV with a self contained pull behind tiller, at least the first year/pass. Subsequent years, may be able to use a rental tiller to simply churn up the top soil.

As you've found out, used tillers are in high demand by gardeners and don't last long when listed. Owning one requires some mechanical aptitude, they take a beating and need repairs, esp a used one that has many hours on it already.

Being sarcastic... there's a reason feed corn is popular... 

Edited June 13, 2018 by nyslowhand

[Steuben Jerry]

15 hours ago, moog5050 said:

Is in unrealistic to plan an acre of tilling with one of these?

Not unrealistic, but just thinking of doing an entire acre with a walk behind makes my back hurt!

I've got a front tine that I use on a backyard garden, and I think a rear tine would work better for you.

[LET EM GROW]

Moog, I think it will work for you No problem. Rear tine would be the way to go, But it is going to be more work than you intend on doing I would think. They work great for smaller areas like gardens etc.. up to an acre, makes me sore just thinking about it. If you do go this route, remember you only need to scratch an inch or 2 of soil, after you killed all vegetation off. And you dont need a perfect seed bed.

Not to derail your thought process, But if you are only looking to do brassicas, and or other fall blends. You can do all those small and grain type seeds without scratching any soil at all. Small seeds are very easy to germinate. You just have to rely more on rain is all. if you have a quad or lawn tractor, find a lawn roller for it. Ive also done them by just killing off vegetation and spreading seed before good rain. and walk away. Pics to prove it.  

For example, you can see no soil was tilled in this picture..  I even plant my soybeans without scratching soil. 

[land 1]

The first time you break new ground that is hasnt been turned over in many years is a pain the areas i planted last year are real easy to turn over, the new areas take more time and multiple passes with my drag, but after this year i should be good to go i'm basically making all the areas that can be food plots will be. and ive said it before but  planting something like turnips or a tuber the 1st year  helps break the ground up for the following year

[moog5050]

10 hours ago, nyslowhand said:

Moog, assuming you've never used a tiller before...?

Tillers are made to turn over ground that has already been cultivated in previous years. Tillers don't replace plows! Using a walk-behind tiller on virgin ground, areas with plenty of rocks or tree roots - well, it's a "work out" to say the least and you won't get the results you expected. JMO, I'd  be looking to hire someone with a small tractor with a 3pt tiller, bobcat w/tiller attachment or an ATV with a self contained pull behind tiller, at least the first year/pass. Subsequent years, may be able to use a rental tiller to simply churn up the top soil.

As you've found out, used tillers are in high demand by gardeners and don't last long when listed. Owning one requires some mechanical aptitude, they take a beating and need repairs, esp a used one that has many hours on it already.

Being sarcastic... there's a reason feed corn is popular... 

Both plots have been tilled in the past.  I don't know.  I am still debating.  Maybe I will just rent one and see how hard it is vs. having a $600 paper weight because its too much work.  Before then, I may just try and see how mowing, spraying and seeding works and reconsider after this season.

[turkeyfeathers]

Thank goodness wife opted out of veggie garden this year. No mantis for me to till the bed. It’s like you’re slow dancing with a kangaroo on steroids. 

[WNYBuckHunter]

Hey Moog, can you get a 4x4 tractor into the spot you want to plant?

[landtracdeerhunter]

Used this one for three seasons now. All garden work between the rows. Pros: motor runs great and starts on the first pull when choked, plenty of power for 17". Cons:  Forward working speed to fast; transport speed to slow;  tines are light, gearbox shaft is small( sheared one off ); shear bolt on the tines shear easily, metric;  Guards brackets are light and have to be straighten few times a season.

Their is no way I would ever use this for food plots. My tractor 3 point hitch version is so much nicer. Maybe it has spoiled me. Boy, the ground looks so much nicer in the picture. LOL. My next tiller will be a BCS, Steiner or Ventrac. I like the Steiner from the seat. Why not spoil oneself, LOL.

Edited June 17, 2018 by landtracdeerhunter