ok so sales pitch me......

[Jeremy K]

I like the the ability to hold a new bow at full draw for as long as necessary . I feel like i can hold any of my Elites at full draw for  as long as i wanted to .

[sodfather]

2 hours ago, Jeremy K said:

Same parallel cam design they have been using for a few years , at least the parallel part. I'm gonna talk to jeff when the time comes and have him get as many 70 pound bows he has and im literally gonna shoot each  one with my eyes closed . I won't even know what brand im shooting til i pick the one that felt the best.

New Prime’s will be at Jeff’s in November leave your credit card in the lot 

[Culvercreek hunt club]

My 60 pound synergy maxed out is 64 pounds . 

I have always heard that it is best to run a bow at its peak. If you will shoot 60 then buy 60. Don’t buy a 70 and shoot at 55. For what it’s worth

[Jeremy K]

20 minutes ago, Culvercreek hunt club said:

I have always heard that it is best to run a bow at its peak. If you will shoot 60 then buy 60. Don’t buy a 70 and shoot at 55. For what it’s worth

I plan to shoot a 70 pound bow maxed out . My bows are always used so i always ended up with 60 pounders .

[The_Real_TCIII]

21 minutes ago, Culvercreek hunt club said:

I have always heard that it is best to run a bow at its peak. If you will shoot 60 then buy 60. Don’t buy a 70 and shoot at 55. For what it’s worth

 

3 minutes ago, Jeremy K said:

I plan to shoot a 70 pound bow maxed out . My bows are always used so i always ended up with 60 pounders .

I bought my Elite Pulse with 70lb limbs and immediately searched for and bought 60lb lol. 

[Culvercreek hunt club]

10 minutes ago, The_Real_TCIII said:

 

I bought my Elite Pulse with 70lb limbs and immediately searched for and bought 60lb lol. 

Good way to do it is you want the flexibility

[The_Real_TCIII]

1 hour ago, Culvercreek hunt club said:

Good way to do it is you want the flexibility

In those years the Elite limbs were all interchangeable and 70lb was the most popular so it was easy to swap

[Chef]

I’ll chime in and say I started off with a cheap Parker about 10 years ago. Over time the bow became very noisy lots of vibration and accuracy suffered. I moved to a mission by Matthews 5 years ago and was very happy with it. No issues what so ever but I felt I wanted more speed which would help with longer range shots. Wound up getting a halon last year and I love love love it. The bow is super fast, quiet, easy to hold, has a great let off, was easy to tune. I’ve had a blast with my Halon and will probably keep it for 10 years


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[Hock3y24]

14 hours ago, Jeremy K said:

I like the the ability to hold a new bow at full draw for as long as necessary . I feel like i can hold any of my Elites at full draw for  as long as i wanted to .

Ill have a hard time ever getting away from this Elite, every bow i shoot feels like crap compared to it. 65 lbs are perfect for me. I have converted just about all of my hunting friends by allowing them to shoot my bow at 3d shoots.  

[Doc]

Anybody remember the old Bear Whitetail hunter. Six wheels, steel cables and solid epoxy limbs that could double as pry bars if need be. The price was under $100.....lol. Probably one of the slowest bows ever made other than perhaps the old Allen originals. I killed more deer with that bow than any of the super-duper bows that I have hanging on the walls. And none of those top of the line bows hanging on the walls killed any of the deer any more dead than that old clunky Bear.

I am not saying that bow design should have ceased after that old Bear hit the market, but I have watched prices climb through the roof over the past years and most of those increases were based on things that you need exotic instrumentation to measure. The speed freaks accounted for a lot of the price inflation, and new terminology was invented to justify features that in reality meant nothing without a shooting machine and a chronograph to measure. Yeah I was chasing all that technology too. That's how I wound up with a wall full of very expensive (for the time) bows.

Finally, I gave my head a shake and stopped trying to keep up with all the Madison avenue hype and recognized the real value, or lack thereof of all these mysterious features. The day I bought my $600 Mathews about 19 years ago, I took the first step toward shifting my disposable income to other toys that offered more perceptible true value for the additional bucks. And I still get as many deer as we can eat, and they are still just as dead as anybody else's deer take. Oh and by the way, I am still shooting aluminum arrows too. No I am not shooting these deer at 50+ yards, but then that wasn't why I picked up the bow in the first place.

But the bottom line is you buy what you need to feel good about your bowhunting. I did for years and I really don't regret it. I just found out that I really didn't have to.

[WNYBuckHunter]

7 minutes ago, Doc said:

Anybody remember the old Bear Whitetail hunter. Six wheels, steel cables and solid epoxy limbs that could double as pry bars if need be. The price was under $100.....lol. Probably one of the slowest bows ever made other than perhaps the old Allen originals.

 

Funny thing is, when I started getting into archery, that bow is what I started with. My father bought it brand new. I still have it kicking around. It will be hanging on the wall of my man cave after I am done refurbishing the finished basement. Out of all of the bows Ive ever had, that one will never go anywhere.

[Nomad]

Two bows, 30 years of killing  deer with them , a Golden Eagle, and my “new bow “I got 12 years ago a Reflex . Not sure if I ever had that one “tuned “ , I assume when they put new strings on a few years ago they did something .

I read this whole  thread and it’s clear, I don’t know very much about bows, and I’m fine with that , I’d drive myself nuts with all the testing and tuning some guys do .

 

[WNYBuckHunter]

1 minute ago, Stay at home Nomad said:

Two bows, 30 years of killing  deer with them , a Golden Eagle, and my “new bow “I got 12 years ago a Reflex . Not sure if I ever had that one “tuned “ , I assume when they put new strings on a few years ago they did something .

I read this whole  thread and it’s clear, I don’t know very much about bows, and I’m fine with that , I’d drive myself nuts with all the testing and tuning some guys do .

 

I started getting crazy about tuning things years ago. Drove myself nuts paper tuning, indexing arrow shafts, building my arrows, etc. I even considered buying a press and learning how to work on it myself. I had enough of it and started just taking my bow to a local shop. The guy does a good job. As long as my arrows are hitting their mark, and flying straight, its good enough for me. If I notice an issue with it, I take it back to him and let him go through it. I havent had to do that very much with my Maxxis, but its getting time for new strings and cables soon, so Im sure he will tune it all up when he puts them on. I buy high quality pre fletched arrows of the proper spine and have them cut to length by the same guy. Id rather spend more time scouting and getting things done around the property than spend it screwing with my bow.

[Dom]

7 minutes ago, Stay at home Nomad said:

Two bows, 30 years of killing  deer with them , a Golden Eagle, and my “new bow “I got 12 years ago a Reflex . Not sure if I ever had that one “tuned “ , I assume when they put new strings on a few years ago they did something .

I read this whole  thread and it’s clear, I don’t know very much about bows, and I’m fine with that , I’d drive myself nuts with all the testing and tuning some guys do .

 

I started with a Browning that my Uncle let me use then purchased the Jennings 18 years and replaced string once.I cant see or justify replacing it when it works/shoots and puts meat on my plate.Some of the more modern bow's are nice and within my budget but will keep using my current one.I also do not know much about tuning.

[The_Real_TCIII]

Anybody remember the old Bear Whitetail hunter. Six wheels, steel cables and solid epoxy limbs that could double as pry bars if need be. The price was under $100.....lol. Probably one of the slowest bows ever made other than perhaps the old Allen originals. I killed more deer with that bow than any of the super-duper bows that I have hanging on the walls. And none of those top of the line bows hanging on the walls killed any of the deer any more dead than that old clunky Bear.
I am not saying that bow design should have ceased after that old Bear hit the market, but I have watched prices climb through the roof over the past years and most of those increases were based on things that you need exotic instrumentation to measure. The speed freaks accounted for a lot of the price inflation, and new terminology was invented to justify features that in reality meant nothing without a shooting machine and a chronograph to measure. Yeah I was chasing all that technology too. That's how I wound up with a wall full of very expensive (for the time) bows.
Finally, I gave my head a shake and stopped trying to keep up with all the Madison avenue hype and recognized the real value, or lack thereof of all these mysterious features. The day I bought my $600 Mathews about 19 years ago, I took the first step toward shifting my disposable income to other toys that offered more perceptible true value for the additional bucks. And I still get as many deer as we can eat, and they are still just as dead as anybody else's deer take. Oh and by the way, I am still shooting aluminum arrows too. No I am not shooting these deer at 50+ yards, but then that wasn't why I picked up the bow in the first place.
But the bottom line is you buy what you need to feel good about your bowhunting. I did for years and I really don't regret it. I just found out that I really didn't have to.

I have one, a friend just gave it to me when he moved. My first was a Whitetail II


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[moog5050]

This was a very high end recurve and it couldn’t help this crappy group at 40.   That’s the overweight Indian not the bow.  

[nyslowhand]

On 8/24/2018 at 12:28 PM, Culvercreek hunt club said:

I have always heard that it is best to run a bow at its peak. If you will shoot 60 then buy 60. Don’t buy a 70 and shoot at 55. For what it’s worth

May be true...!?! All the marketing spec for a bow are at its' full "bore" setup and shot with lightest arrows.

I for one, would never criticize any bow hunter that can shoot a vintage bow with consistency and harvest deer every year. Also have a lot of respect for those that have been using long bows! Hate to beat a dead horse, but aren't we all shooting a majority of our deer in the 20-25yr range?

Moog, there's nothing to be ashamed or embarrassed about with that grouping using a recurve and esp at 40yrds. Overweight Indians don't get fewer deer, they're just cast bigger shadows. 

[rob-c]

17 hours ago, moog5050 said:

This was a very high end recurve and it couldn’t help this crappy group at 40.   That’s the overweight Indian not the bow.  

I’ve seen guys with compounds , pin sights and a peep shoot groups like that at 30 yards. Heck you just had that one drop out of the kill zone.not bad shooting sir ... 

[moog5050]

43 minutes ago, rob-c said:

I’ve seen guys with compounds , pin sights and a peep shoot groups like that at 30 yards. Heck you just had that one drop out of the kill zone.not bad shooting sir ... 

Thanks Rob.  I need some work on longer shooting.   

[Culvercreek hunt club]

On 8/26/2018 at 4:57 AM, nyslowhand said:

May be true...!?! All the marketing spec for a bow are at its' full "bore" setup and shot with lightest arrows.

I for one, would never criticize any bow hunter that can shoot a vintage bow with consistency and harvest deer every year. Also have a lot of respect for those that have been using long bows! Hate to beat a dead horse, but aren't we all shooting a majority of our deer in the 20-25yr range?

 

Hope I didn't sound like I was criticizing anyone. I was speaking about getting the best accuracy out of any compound, New or old. I always read and been told that it's best to have one that is designed with it's max at or near the poundage you want to shoot. 

[moog5050]

3 minutes ago, Culvercreek hunt club said:

Hope I didn't sound like I was criticizing anyone. I was speaking about getting the best accuracy out of any compound, New or old. I always read and been told that it's best to have one that is designed with it's max at or near the poundage you want to shoot. 

Bob,  I actually tested that theory a few years ago when I had compounds and limbs at various weights.  Tried 50-60lb limbs maxed and then 60-70lb limbs turned down to the same weight as the maxed 60lb limb on the same bow.  My conclusion was that it depended on the bow and the difference was negligible in any event.  I can't recall which bow it was (was an elite) but I know at least one shot faster with limbs turned down vs. maxed out.  As you can tell, I must have been bored.  lol