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Special Thanks to Dinorocks

moog5050

By moog5050,
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moog5050 Mentor

moog5050

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@dinorocks was very kind in skinning the yote and fox we shot in Team WooBoo’s first predator hunt this year.  It was greatly appreciated.  

But then he shocked me with a surprise doing euro mounts of both.   They are really really neat and well done.  You can tell there was some serious time invested.  And what a great job!    Not sure of your method but it works very well.  

Thanks Dino for a completely unexpected gift. You do rock.  

58727FDC-ACE8-427F-AE11-227D7B877AAC.jpeg

CCF97760-67F0-4A53-B863-E2047C1D895C.jpeg

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moog5050 Mentor

moog5050

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3 hours ago, Lawdwaz said:

Those look great Moog.....Dino has many talents as seen there.  
 

I’ve only killed a couple coyotes worthy of a European mount and regret not doing one.  Maybe down the road I’ll do one.....

I never even thought about it. So glad Dino did!

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dinorocks Community Regular

dinorocks

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Thanks guys, a labor of love!

A Real quick tutorial if you are interested...after I remove the pelt and as much meat as I can from the skulls, I simmer them until the remaining meat, brains, etc. comes off.  I remove the teeth and then use an air compressor to blow out the brain and sinus cavity as well as all the nerves holes, etc from the skulls, including the lower jaw.  I then put the pieces in water with a surfactant (Dawn dish soap) and heat the water to 85 F for several days, changing the water frequently. I scrub the skull, jaw bones, and teeth along the was as this helps remove the fat from the bone (even if the skull looks clean and white after the “bleaching” step, the fatty oils will start showing up down the road if there is no effort to remove fat...this will cause yellow blotches on the skull).  My next step it to air dry the skull and then put in H2O2...NOT bleach!  I have been using 27% (pool clarifier) with great success (the brown bottle you buy at the pharmacy is 3%...it works but not as fast).  I also heat the H2O2 with a fish tank heater so the H2O2 is more reactive.  After a few days, I remove the skulls and let air dry...I don’t rinse because the H2O2 continues to whiten while it dries.  The last step is gluing the puzzle back together (If you are doing more than one skull at a time, it’s best to segregate the teeth for each critter).  I use elmers glue to reattach the teeth and lower jaw because if I make a mistake, I can soften the glue with water and straighten my mistakes.

I do deer skulls a similar method but need to take great care not to get H2O2 on the antlers.

 I have a skull from almost every species of mammal in NY...with the matching pelt (I use these as teaching tools when I present at schools or Scout groups).

My surplus skulls go to my beetle guy.

I collected lots of skulls this past season...see pict below.

Send me an email if you have any questions on preparing skulls that I might be able to answer for you.

Thanks for reading!

Dino

[email protected]

 

 

E586941E-B772-4D9E-AE3E-567791681B01.jpeg

1CCE13A1-5EEF-4AFF-BE44-D846B793698A.jpeg

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BizCT Grand Master

BizCT

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This was one of the original GTG in SE with some legends....Cynthia, Dino, Jdubs, aboa plus many others...no WNY guys that time


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You are thinking of Dinsdale maybe? Dino is from WNY and only came to GTG out there


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Moho81 Mentor

Moho81

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Thanks guys, a labor of love!
A Real quick tutorial if you are interested...after I remove the pelt and as much meat as I can from the skulls, I simmer them until the remaining meat, brains, etc. comes off.  I remove the teeth and then use an air compressor to blow out the brain and sinus cavity as well as all the nerves holes, etc from the skulls, including the lower jaw.  I then put the pieces in water with a surfactant (Dawn dish soap) and heat the water to 85 F for several days, changing the water frequently. I scrub the skull, jaw bones, and teeth along the was as this helps remove the fat from the bone (even if the skull looks clean and white after the “bleaching” step, the fatty oils will start showing up down the road if there is no effort to remove fat...this will cause yellow blotches on the skull).  My next step it to air dry the skull and then put in H2O2...NOT bleach!  I have been using 27% (pool clarifier) with great success (the brown bottle you buy at the pharmacy is 3%...it works but not as fast).  I also heat the H2O2 with a fish tank heater so the H2O2 is more reactive.  After a few days, I remove the skulls and let air dry...I don’t rinse because the H2O2 continues to whiten while it dries.  The last step is gluing the puzzle back together (If you are doing more than one skull at a time, it’s best to segregate the teeth for each critter).  I use elmers glue to reattach the teeth and lower jaw because if I make a mistake, I can soften the glue with water and straighten my mistakes.
I do deer skulls a similar method but need to take great care not to get H2O2 on the antlers.
 I have a skull from almost every species of mammal in NY...with the matching pelt (I use these as teaching tools when I present at schools or Scout groups).
My surplus skulls go to my beetle guy.
I collected lots of skulls this past season...see pict below.
Send me an email if you have any questions on preparing skulls that I might be able to answer for you.
Thanks for reading!
Dino
[email protected]
 
 
E586941E-B772-4D9E-AE3E-567791681B01.thumb.jpeg.379ad29cd99e7f819011bf52de017d4e.jpeg
1CCE13A1-5EEF-4AFF-BE44-D846B793698A.thumb.jpeg.f6118a6d39b2f4b48b0cbfd23ef7aec0.jpeg

Talk about a bad ass picture!


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