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Fixed blade vs mechanical


crappyice
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Currently I shoot mechanicals so I can practice with field points in my limited-distance backyard. I am thinking of switching to fixed blades for a one main reason. I failed to get pass throughs on two deer this past season. My bow is set to 60 pounds which is very comfortable for me. I have and could pull more but the areas I hunt are tight and any shot is no more than 20 yards. Plus i like an easy pull when i am shaking like a leaf as a deer walks by! Does a fixed blade of the same weight offer a greater punch than a mechanical? Will increasing my bows poundage relieve som concerns?

If I make the switch how different do fixed blades shoot from field points?

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Really, if your bow is tuned properly, fixed blades will shoot the same as your field points.

I shoot 63# with fixed blades and get pass throughs most of the time. I had one last year that didnt, but Im pretty sure my shot was off a bit and I caught the deer's shoulder bone, so the arrow stuck. I did shoot mechanicals at one point, and got pass throughs with those as well.

What weight are your arrows, as in total with the broadheads, and do you know how fast your bow is shooting?

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I have had terribel luck with fold back mechanicals. the only 3 deer I have not had pass throughs on was with them. No heavy bone was hit but he angle was on the 25-30 degree quartering away shot. I am back to fixed to stay. (Montec G5)

I have heard of guys having good luck with rear deploying blades like Rage. just never got into them.

Oh and my fixed fly the same and have the same point of impact as my field tips.

Edited by Culvercreek hunt club
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A great deal of how the arrows will fly field point versus broadhead depends on the distance shot.

I hunted once from the same camp as Fred Bear though not in his group, and the camp keeper showed me the targets Bear and his friends used, they were fully 100 yards away from the camp porch where they shot from.

The camp keeper explained that the entire group with Fred did not hesitate to fire an arrow from their recurves at game a full football field away.

At that time, the early 1960s, I had unlimited arrows though i still marked them with my name and address should I lose one, but letting them go at that range was not in my mind at all.

Over the years I have taken game and many shots at Fred Bear distances but as my arms age I can no longer pull the heavy poundage, I keep my shots to ranges I know my bow will work at, 40 yards and under, and even with a 40 to 45 pound bow with razor honed fixed broadheads I have complete pass throughs on deer at all angles unless I hit the shoulder or spine, which happens.

I have teken moose and elk with the three bladed magnus broadhead and have never had a lost game animal due to the broadhead.

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I shoot a slower bow at 61# with Grim Reaper mechs. I shoot the smaller 1 3/8" razor tips. I also shoot slick tricks when in a blind or if my supply of GR heads run out. I get pass throughs no problem with both.

The ST in my opinion is probably the best penetrating head I have ever seeen. I don't have formal data to back that up but it seems to out penetrate any other head I shoot...everything from foam blocks, the 3-d targets, to deer.

I thoot the GR because I still get good penetration and the blood trails are phenomenal (which has more to do with shot placement imo), and because I like using their practice heads in the off-season.

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Lot of pros & cons regarding fixed vs mechanical.

Original selling point of mechanicals was they flew about the same as your practice field points.

Now a days, the big draw is the larger cutting diameter mechanicals (Rage) can achieve.

Of course, you're talking about a slit (2 blade Rage) as opposed to triangular fixed broadhead wound.

Which is better......?

Have heard complaints about mechanicals not functioning as advertised or not getting a pass thru on angled shots.

Ill stick with my fixed blade and avoid any possible mechanical malfunctions at the moment of truth.

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One of the reasons I use mechanical is that they fit in my shoulder quiver better, yet I usually have a fixed blade in my rest while hunting. They come out of the quiver nice too... I have never shot a deer with my bow,(most get a free pass)so I can not say what is better. I have heard really good reports on the Rage...

In so far as changing your poundage, don't bother. With the bows of today you are probably shooting in the range of 250 fps or better which is more than enough for deer. The few times you did not get a pass through was probably due to a bone. Sometimes the none pass through shots do more damage as that blade is moving in the cavity...

Quartering shots require a lot of force to get through the other side. (big cavity) The 1st impact of the arrow on the ribbs probably takes much of the force out of the shot, even if the rib is missed going in it has a large area to cover before hitting the exit point and sometimes it just does not have enough energy to get through but it will still end with a good kill...

And I agree with WNYBuckHunter, if your bow is set up properly and you have good form you arrow will shoot the same regaurless of tip used. I go out hunting with multiple types of tips, mainly because I still have them all. One for Turkey, one for small game(field tip) and the rest are for deer, usually 2 extra...

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Proper tuned bow and arrow will do the trick for increased penetration. What arrow do you shoot and what is the GPI and spine of said arrow?

I shoot fixed, one less thing to go wrong in the field. I have put an arrow through bone with a Muzzy, surprised me, but I do shoot a heavy set up.

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More info is needed to arrive at what inhibits your setup from getting penetration with mechanical heads.

1) how well is your bow tuned?

2) what is the overall weight of your arrow including broadhead?

3) at what distance do you fail to get passthroughs?

4) what was the animal doing when the arrow impacted?

5) what cutting diameter mechanical are you using?

6) what style of mechanical head are you using? jackknife/ overthe top deployment or cam action?

7) what is the energy output of your compound bow?

1) If your arrow is not traveling straight you will lose a lot of penetration potential regardless of the type of broadhead used.

2) a light weight arrow 350 grains or less will penetrate less that one in the 400+ grain category.

3) longer distance shots will penetrate less.

4) an animal that is dropping and whirling away when the arrow strikes will have an effect on arrow penetration when compared to an animal that was moving very little. Most aminals that have an arrow heading their way start to move somewhat before the arrow actually strikes.

5) mechanical broadheads come in many styles and cutting diameters. A 2 blade head with a 1 +1/2 inch cut will penetrate better than a 2 blade with a 2 inch diameter cut, or a 3 blade mechanical with a 1 + 1/2 inch cut.

6) a jackknife style mechanical head will use up a little energy upon deployment, while a cam action will not.

7) a bow that puts out 55 foot pounds and up is adequate to achieve passthroughs with mechanical broadheads at 20 yard ballpark distances.

I shoot a 60 lb compound with a 28" draw. I have beeen using a similar setup for 15 years and have had many passthroughs on good size bucks while using these mechanical heads:

the original Spitfire 2 blade jacknife head

Rocket 3 blade 1 3/8 diameter heads

2 blade Rocky Mountain snyper heads with 1 + 1/2 inch diameter.

You need to match your braodhead choice with your bow's energy output. While a large diameter head is not a good choice if your bow puts put modest energy, there are an abundant number of mechanicals heads out there today that will fair just fine with most compound bow setups.

while using mechanicals most of my passthroughs resulted in the arrow also sticking in the ground, and there was one that ended up in a small tree after passing through a 2+1/2 year old buck at 20 yards that I could not pull out. That was with the 3 blade Rocket head. Of course shot placement was on the money in that case and others when passthroughs were achieved.

If passtroughs are not being achieved at normal distance shots then there is probably more to balme that the head of the arrow. lots of guys have a habit of blaming the mechanical head when they don't recover the animal, when in fact the blame belongs elsewhere. I have never had one fail me. All the deer hit well with one were recoverd and most were passthroughs and more.

Edited by skyhunter
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I shoot low poundage so I shoot fixed blade...but pass throughs aren't always done....I've hit shoulder blades at 20yrds and had near pass throughs and killed last years buck with a high going away shot at 10yrds and the arrow was sticking out as he ran...I heard the crash as he died...the arrow.... he broke off and it sliced a path of destruction as he ran which ended up not only hitting lung but reversed and I found it in the middle of his rt rear leg when butchering...shot a doe a couple of weeks before that at 35 yrds and got a complete pass through...shooting 49#'s....I'll always shoot 4blade fixed...but have been trying out different brands the last few years

Edited by growalot
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I shoot only fixed broadheads. I have had problems with the mech. opening up and that was it for me. The thing you have to be worried about is plaining if you go with a wide two blade broadhead. Just have to tune your arrow to your bow it you have problems.

That being said with your poundage and short distances you would have no problem shooting a three blade broadhead. Which I would recommend. You have more arterial cutting with a an extra blade. You should have no problem getting a pass through. Muzzy makes some real hard hitting broadheads which i use and love. This year I am changing it up to a cut on contact. Going with a simmons treeshark or a woodsmen elite.

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another thing, I wouldn't go with a two blade broadhead unless you were shooting low poundage under 45 pounds. I shoot 50lb and three blades pass through with a good shot. Bone can stop any arrow even at high poundage. I took alot of deer with a 43lb bow shooting 3 bladed broadheads. That extra blade can make the difference needed.

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I shot 125gr. Thunderheads ( fixed blades) for years, with real good results. Two years ago i got a new, much faster, bow and went with 100gr. Rage mechanicals, mainly because a friend raved about how good they shot in faster bows. I shot one buck with them the first year, at about 15 yds. . Not all that impressed. I hit a little bone and he didn't go far but he was still alive when I found him. I hate that. The arrow was about 1/3 into the deer. I have made similar shots with fixed blades and they seemed to smash right through. Rage dosn't have the hardened chistle point like most fixed heads do. Another buddy of mine shot at a big buck last year with a rage broadhead, only to watch his arrow fly way off to the right. Turns out that one of the blades popped out when he released because one of the O-rings that hold the blades back, had slipped off or dry rotted or something. One more thing to worry about. I went back to fixed last year. 100gr. Rocky's

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I shot 125gr. Thunderheads ( fixed blades) for years, with real good results. Two years ago i got a new, much faster, bow and went with 100gr. Rage mechanicals, mainly because a friend raved about how good they shot in faster bows. I shot one buck with them the first year, at about 15 yds. . Not all that impressed. I hit a little bone and he didn't go far but he was still alive when I found him. I hate that. The arrow was about 1/3 into the deer. I have made similar shots with fixed blades and they seemed to smash right through. Rage dosn't have the hardened chistle point like most fixed heads do. Another buddy of mine shot at a big buck last year with a rage broadhead, only to watch his arrow fly way off to the right. Turns out that one of the blades popped out when he released because one of the O-rings that hold the blades back, had slipped off or dry rotted or something. One more thing to worry about. I went back to fixed last year. 100gr. Rocky's

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All depends on your bow and set up and distance.I only shoot at deer turkey's at 20 yards or less,Either compound or conventional.All of my bows are set a 50 lbs.At 28".I find that Arrow Dynamics - Traditional > With a 125 Steel Force 2 blade with 2 small bleeders work very well.I have tried every thing from custom wood to the every brand of composite arrows out there.This is what works for me.You can shoot a very light arrow and tip for speed,but it is the weight of the arrow and broad head getting the job done.

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Me fixed cut on contact 2 blades. Since I started with these IDK 15 years ago? I had to "track" 2 deer. The rest dropped in sight often less then 30 yards away.

The deer don't run off like they were kicked . Thats worth a lot to me.

Yes fixed and field point should fly the same mine have always, which is why I consider mech. to be a solution in shearch of a problem.

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Killed deer with spitfire's mechanicals , rocket fixed and for the past 3 seasons with the G5's . Love the g5's . Really enjoy putting a new edge on them myself rather then swapping out replacements like in the past. Impact is exactly like field points. My first reaction to your delemna is that you have a tuning problem. Either bow or arrows. Don't try to solve that by banking on mechanicals to cover up a flaw in your set-up. Find out the problem, and correct it. Then you will have the much needed confidence in knowing that whatever is on the end of your shaft is going to do it's part..It may end up being a mechanical that you choose and thats fine but cure the problem first and your shooting will improve dramatically..

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Also no need to buy expensive broadheads, I have killed 90% of the deer I have shot with a bow with walmart $10 specials. All pass throughs. Granted most shots I take are broadside and under 20 yrds, so kind of hard not to get a pass through on that. But as long as the broadheads are straight and sharp no matter the price it will kill a deer just as dead. Though when I was younger I killed a doe with my recurve with an arrow I found laying on the ground out in the woods and the broadhead was all rusty and the arrow was 4 inchs to long. I wouldnt suggest doing that but shot placement is more important than broadhead used!

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I agree that shot placement is way more important than the style of broadhead. That is why I encourage those that need mechanical broadheads to go ahead and use them. It's far more important that accuracy is acheived ..... everytime, without fail than to be out there with broadheads that have a mind of their own.

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